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I want to do the same- with larger LED tail lights and amber for the turn signals. I found a tail light decoder/de-coupler. I tried it temporarily and it worked as advertised. Will install permanently in a bit...

It's been an incredibly productive last two days. After having built one door, the second went together in a flash. Next up was actually constructing the spare carrier concept which I've been brewing in my head since I removed the OEM gear. This also went together shockingly quickly, and even...

I don't think that's a valve. It looks like the end of a caging bolt in one of the cage bolt holders. I am certain someone will chime in to laugh at me or confirm.

Proof of concept for boats inside the truck: The lumber pieces represent the appropriate wall thicknesses and positions for the boat storage space. In addition, I also built the left cargo bay door today and it went pretty well. Swings open easily, hinges work well, clearances work out...

Sorry Todd, I posed that question poorly. What I am looking to know is if the POR15 will provide sufficient bond to use the real sealant over. I have lots of raw tubing and if all I have to do is POR it and then use the Sika or other appropriate adhesive/sealer, I would be very happy. Right...

Doug, B-dog has forged this path already. It's on my list as well, hasn't made it to the top yet though: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/6x6-v-link-boots.200434/

@cbrTodd Does POR work well over mill scale? Specifically, will it bond well enough to seal up the exterior skin of a camper box, or will it pull the scale away? Any suggestions on metal prep?

Don't remember but it was simple: I put the cooler where I wanted it and measured it for custom hoses. A local hydraulic shop had them done while I went for some lunch. Very quick and easy. Where you position yours may be different than mine. My mounts were nothing more than angle iron...

I have hab-side access planned for a large portion of the flooring. All the hoses and valves and other components between the rails leaves me disinclined to close it off permanently. I think it's a wise consideration to pursue for anyone building atop these platforms.

I thought long and hard about which way to mount the fans (one of the joys of working alone through this project) and ended up with the configuration after much internal deliberation. The counterpoint to the debris from below is if something does get up there, I don't want it being held in...

Box left this morning, Fri delivery.

Disregard.

Just remembered the 1088 is a different cooler than the 1083. Above is my solution, but I'd imagine it could be applied to the 1083 as well.

I found low-profile 24v automotive fans and made a flat shroud on which to mount them. Reasonably priced and simple solution. Push air down as well.

Yep. That's the way to do it these days. Same function, different label.

Before I completely removed my manifold, I just closed the loop of the removed circuits. Figure out which hose is which and just hook the send hose to the receive port. Keeps the system closed and fluid clean. Run your new hoses when ready. I'm not in TX but I do have a spare carrier sitting...

PM me your address and I will get it your direction in the next day or two.

@Reworked LMTV - You're first in line if you want the one from my rig. Otherwise it looks like at least 2 other people are on the hunt for one and I'd be happy to pass it along if you're pursuing an alternate option.

Need special hinges for the cargo bay to get the doors to open the way that I want them to. Got them built up today and clamped them in place for proof of concept: Pretty stoked with how smoothly they work: Open sesame! Need to reconfigure a little bit but the concept seems validated.

Is this what you're looking for?: I still have it...