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the Neihoff dual alt does not function well with both sides still being used... and keep in mind..... the 100 amp Niefoff is only 50-ish amp on 24 side.

yeah I knew Ted sadly went to wholesale. Am saddened more; hearing that they won't tell consumers who is a vendor that sells their surplus parts. I'll ask him how to find out.

check with https://www.allisontransmissionpart.com/ where an independent dealer is that contracts with him as a part supplier. Bet his folk not as pricey

yes... sorry though do not remember details. Try searching with terms [ lube cable throttle lubrication ] seem to recall post on this here. seem also to recall posting of a vid on lubricating cables.

What about the harness attachment on the outside? Folk have found issues with outside harness where it hooks to trans.... and others the harness inside the trans.

if does not reply real soon.... might work better to DM him

BTW-- too prevent from breaking your handles. 1: ALIGN YOUR DOORS so they open shut lightly. 3. DON"T pull door open by handle..... ONLY use handle to latch/unlatch.... pull at base at location shown in pic 4. Consider a door popper. Hot Rodders uses these on handle shaved doors. It is a...

you would need a huge 12v alt ... aka.... like 300-400amp to equal a 150-200amp 24v alternator. Your better off to go to what others are doing and that is a commercial 150-200amp 24v alt and a 24v to 12v converter. math sucks but then again.... looking at Marketplace... High Output 12v alts...

You hit idea slightly that has been brewing in ma crazy head. Honestly thinking of adding some slip in points on external rack on my Jeep TJ to slide the poles ( into to plop my cargo cover around it from a M105 trailer... or my LMTV one w/home brewed poles if 105 too small. Thus when flat...

Id say a string to pull shade down (and then tied off to side) may be better simply cause the mechanism/roller etc. would be up more away from road grime, mud etc. Maybe two shades? one at a height of about the top of the military one... so still sorta not in as much grime territory... and...

came across this idea ... hmmmm

???? that post about Montana so your question is a bit misplaced maybe, or you plan move to Montana? PS- info in this thread may have changed dramatically since it came about- thread and that post is around 6 years old.

This RV conversion titling thread pre-dated this forum... it started in the FMTV forum. Here is link. Some may find it helpful. Remember though as well that it is old thread. Your states info may have changed...

they make coolant battery warmers.... or simple tiny car heater core plumbed into battery area

can you point me to some terms to use to find a post where you've mentioned (think you have already) how your doing the alternator excite etc now that you removed the sender.

did you remove oil pressure sender and thusly bypass the solenoids that operate from that sender or add the mechanical one as secondary thing orre?

If your going to add 24v winches then yeah for sure go back to 4 batts.. (and appropriate alternator). If not doing 24v. winches (or 12) then spend cost of two more batts on a diesel fired coolant heater system. That would more roundly serve your needs IMHO

for future reference- captured spring vendor(s) / Part numbers used on M1079 is in the yellow spread parts sheet linked to a top of the FMTV forum. Rubber looked to me like it should work good while ago. My ambo box that came off of a Freighlinter uses rubber isolators. Sadly not really...

what do you see as this being superior over typical captured metal springs... or captured pair of metal springs?