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I'm wan't necessarily thinking it was the A5. Just wanted to provide the testing info should you or Guy think A5 could be the problem. I'm not an expert on the 005 like @Guyfang is. You can use 120 Volts 60Hz (power from house AC outlet) instead of 400 Hz to supply power to terminals 18 & 22...

With my A5 in there the actuator will not lift off the magnet until you put S1 in START. The moment S1 goes into the START position my A5 sends a pulse to the actuator to lift the actuator off the magnet. If this is not happening, then it would appear the magnet strength may be set too high...

Here is some info on the A5 Card that may be of some help in testing the A5 card. Schematic of the A5 Card in the TM test setup. R3 is a 2.7K ohm resistor. Test Procedure using above test setup Component layout of the A5 card

Jumpering those two terminals is connecting the RUN circuit to the START circuit. So, when S1 is in any run position the START circuit is continually energized. When this happens the field Flashing function is also continually on supplying flashing voltage to the exciter causing the generator...

Would require a mechanical interlock if they are allowed in your area. Locks out utility service when generator breaker is closed.

The tab they are pressed into should rotate about 180 degrees

Are you handy with a hand held meter? Are any Fault Lamps illuminated after starting it?

That hose is all cracked and needs to be replaced. Likely the others too.

You should have about 24 volts DC at S1-5, not 8.56. Here is the wiring path from the battery positive to S1-5. Check for 24 volts along the path point by point starting at the battery positive. Bat+-----Starter Big Terminal-----SR1+----K2-A1-----K13-A1-----P7-17/J7-17---TB5-13B/13A----CB1...

As mentioned, check the fuse on the left of the Voltage Regulator. Does the generator make voltage when the set is running and you hold S1 in START? If so I'd suggest testing the AC Voltage Regulator per the -24 TM.

The gensets for Patriot would be 400 Hz units. The one powering the Radar Shelter would be a big one since it draws a lot of power to light up the TWT's. I'm sure Guy will chime in on what they are.

Don't bother running it with K12 removed. Doing so prevents the Governor Controller from every getting power. If the set shuts down while running AND K12 isn't illuminated when the engine comes to a stop indicates it stopped for some reason other than the Fault Monitor detecting a fault...

MEP-831A Remote Start Controller System Wi-Fi Remote Control & 2-Wire Start/Stop Include improved Governor Controller Adds display of Oil Pressure and Crankcase Temperature Features include: · Remote genset Start/Stop via WIFI via cell phone, laptop, tablet · Direct WiFi...

I only have one kit left. I don't plan on producing any more once it's gone.

Here is a link to a thread that shows the waveforms of various gensets vs utility power. Waveforms

The outlet should has 120 volts AC. The back of the meter will have either 120 or 208 volts depending on the setting of the AM-VM switch. The assumes the voltage reconnect plate is in the 120/208 position.

A handheld voltmeter that can measure frequency will do the trick. Also a handy device to have is a Kill-a-Watt meter. Great for measuring AC voltage, Frequency and load if something is plugged into its outlet. Do you have the frequency switch set to 60?

It would be best if you start your own thread about your M3 issue. That way you'll get the right help and not have it get lost in this thread which is a different topic.

I finally found the picture of the insides of the Current Transformer that I mentioned above.

With the remote start the starter is still automatically disabled as soon as the generators crank disconnect system sees the engine RPM over 900 regardless of how long you have the cranking parameter set to in the remote start. If the generators crank disconnect system is not working then the...