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It may be that the Governor Controller needs to be adjusted or possibly it's bad. There is an adjustment procedure in the -24 for adjusting it. It could be its adjusted to be a bit too aggressive and is overshooting and undershooting the target RPM of 1,800 RPM thus causing the oscillation in RPM.

The voltages need to be taken across the terminal pairs such A & B, A & C, B & C. IE hook one meter probe to terminal A and the other to terminal B. 293 Hz is way to high a frequency/RPM for no load. You need to perform the Governor Adjustment procedure . It's in the 13&P TM. If you can't...

Something you should check is the AC voltage across terminals A & B on the Governor Controller behind the gauge panel. Do this with the engine running and no load applied. At no load the AC voltage should be about 178 volts AC. If your meter can measure frequency the AC frequency across those...

It's extremely hard to find working inverters for sale. I've never seen just the main board for sale. I could replace the SSR for you but no guarantee it's not another problem with the board causing it not close. @Dewie38 may have something though.

Based on those readings it would look like the problem is inside the Inverter. Specifically, there is a Solid-State Relay (SSR) K8 inside the Inverter isn't "closing" to enable the contactor to close and send power to the lugs. The problem could be with K8 or the circuitry in the inverter that...

Yes, thats a Libby VR

Getting no voltage at step j indicates the Quad winding in the get head isn't working or there is a wiring or connection issue from the Quad winding to the VR. Check for a broken wire where the wires exit the gen head. Next disconnect cable P5 from the bottom of the control cube and inspect the...

It means that if all the above tests pass then the VR is bad. When you did test j did you have your meter set to AC volts an the meters leads connected to terminals 7 & 8 while holding S1 in START?

You are correct. K1 has nothing to do with getting power to the outlet.

CB1 is the circuit breaker for the 24 volt power. S5 controls K1 the contactor. It's good that the set produces power with S1 in Start. That rules out a bunch of stuff. You should perform the AC Voltage regulator test per the -24 TM and see if the VR is toast.

Only 2 of the 3 leads are used on the OP switch.

If the set has the Fuse Mod (fuse on left side of the VR) see if it's blown. If it is it's likely the VR failed. If the fuse is good then start the set and hold S1 in START. You should get AC st the sets meter and the outlet. Do youget AC there with S1 in START while running? If your set...

Are there any fault lamps illuminated on the fault monitor when it shuts down? Have you done a lamp test to verify all the lamps work?

Should one attempt to replace the K8 SSR to retain the the OL function?

Do the K8 SSR's go bad occasionally?

Has the contactor worked correctly in the past for you? The engine RPM won't change until there is a load applied. Without a load it's supposed to run at 3,050 RPM. At full load the RPM would be 3,450 RPM. I'd suggest making the following DC voltage measurements to narrow down the problem. 1)...

Have you done a Lamp Test of the Fault Monitor to verify all the lamps work? Are there any lamps illuminated on the Fault Monitor after you start it?

Systems are now available in the S.S. Parts For Sale Classifieds --> MEP-1030 & MEP-1040 Remote Start Systems

Remote Start Controller Kits For use in MEP-1030 & MEP-1040 Generators Wi-Fi Remote Control & 2-Wire Start/Stop with live Parameter Reporting and Data Logging Features include: · Remote genset Start/Stop over Wi-Fi via cell phone, laptop, tablet · Direct Wi-Fi communication. No...

Thet day has come! The new Wi-Fi and Remote Start system for the MEP-1030 and MEP-1040 is complete! Starting to produce production systems now and will be shipping shortly. Here is a video going over the features. Included are demonstrations of the Wi-Fi Remote Starting, Stopping and other...