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Interesting. I've torn apart dead inverters and never saw one with a toasted disc capacitor. The 12 semiconductors on the left and right are diodes. They comprise the AC to DC rectification of the 3 phase AC power from the PMA.

Correct

831 haters :ROFLMAO: When they work they are great. Perfect 60 Hz output frequency & AC power plus stable VAC output. No droop like 802's and 803's. When the inverter fails it sometimes burns out one or more of the fuses. Check each of these 8 fuses by the PMA power input connectors to be...

Part 2... Remove this bolt and spacer. (mine is missing it) Remove the screws attaching the fan and bottom panel. There are spacers where the bolt passes thru the fan housing. Pull the fan and base panel away. The bracket shown in the pic attached to the base panel would be loose by...

Here is how to get the jig saw puzzle apart :) This will be two posts since only 10 pictures allowed per post. Take the top and two large side panels off. Unplug the three black connectors Remove the three nuts and bolts attaching the control board to the frame (mine is missing the middle...

Yes, It is a bit confusing on how to get the unit apart to service those capacitors. I'll shoot some pictures for you on the step by step to get it apart and post them up here. I've disassembled them numerous times!

Yes, the higher than voltage range is there so that users can use the generator to power applications that require higher voltage than the nominal 120/240/208. Had received several requests early on for that specific capability. This can be done as long as one doesn't exceed the overvoltage...

Inquiring minds... Yes I am :) The design is very similar in architecture and features as my 80X systems. Hundreds of those in use across the US, it's territories and foreign countries. The new Remote Starts will support all the MEP-10XX sets. FEATURES - 2-Wire Start/Stop of course, plus...

Agreed. Readings are jumping around a bit in the video. If you need a new one with wiring let me know. I have a new potentiometer with wiring ready to ship.

No need to unsolder any wires. Just remove the wires attached to VR terminals 1 & 2. Then measure the resistance between the two wires as you rotate the voltage adjust. Should go from about 0 ohms to 5,000 ohms smoothly.

Moderately common failure of CR1. The voltage on both sides of CR1 should always be about 24 Vdc with Dead Crank in Normal and regardless of the position of S1 or S2.

Sounds like a bad CR1. It's a 1N5406 3 amp diode.

Musta missed that. Woke up way too early today.

Does the set turn over when S1 is in START? Does the Fuel Solenoid retract when you are cranking the engine with S1?

Yup, wrong part plugged in there. What you have in there is a regular relay. You need an actual S14 plugged in there.

The leftmost item in the row is S14. It should NOT be a relay. S14 is in a relay case but contains a circuit board with an IC and a few other components on the circuit board inside it. If you have a regular relay in that location then that is likely the problem. I have S14's available in the...

Here is the pinout of one of the KUP relays in the row. It depicts the screw terminals on the sockets. The terminal numbers are also molded into the sockets. I believe you meant S14 not S12. There shouldn't be any wires on the A and B terminals. S14 isn't a relay. It's a Frequency Trip...

If you're losing power to CR1 then it looks like there is a continuity issue from the dead crank switch S10 terminal 3 to CR1 terminal 1. Here is the wiring path from S10-3 to CR1. ------------ wire# 178A --------------------wire# 178B----------------wire# 178C...

The TM to look at is: TM 9-6115-644-24 ** Corrected TM #

1N1190 Qty 3 1N1190R Qty 3 pages 178 & 179 of TM 9-6115-464-24P