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For starters you may want to inspect the pins on the P6 / J6 connectors for corrosion. The N, L1, L2 & L3 signals come thru those connectors. Specifically pins 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 & 18. Here are the paths for L0, L1, L2 & L3 from S8 to S6 the AM-VM switch S8 L0 ------ TB4-4------P6-13 &...

Did the sets voltmeter ever work for you? What's the AC voltage at the convenience outlet? What's the voltage across the L1 L3 lugs with the contactor closed? With the AM-VM set to the 3 o'clock position it's supposed to read 240 volts if phase/voltage reconnection switch is set to 120/240V 1 Phase.

If adjusting the MPU doesn't help then I'd suggest the following. Watch relay K12 and see if it is also opening and closing with the behavior. If K12 doesn't move then check to see if K16-A has 24 volts during the behavior. It should be constant voltage.

OK, if K16 is doing that them it would appear that you may have a problem with S14 the Frequency Trip Switch. It's the leftmost item in the relay row. Looks like a relay but it isn't. What appears to be happening is that the S14 is "opening" and "closing" which causing K16 to open and close...

While holding S1 in START watch relay K16 to see if it is moving each time the fuel solenoid changes position during the cycling.

Even hotter without the bar in place

Sounds like one of the leads running from K1 to the output lugs has chaffed through the insulation and is shorting to the chassis. The clue here is removing the bonding bar makes the problem go away. Removing the bar eliminates the path from the chassis to Neutral. Pop the top cover off and...

If you have a hand held voltmeter watch the voltage on the middle terminal of the white 3 pin connector next to the solenoid. See if the voltage there drop out the moment the solenoid extends. Does the starter drop out at the same time? Also check for 24 volts on the pin on that connector to...

When you release S1 from START to PRUME/RUN and the engine dies leave S1 in PRIME/RUN. Look to see if any of the lamps on the Fault Monitor are illuminated. If so which one? If the Fault Monitor detects a fault, it will illuminate one of the lamps and cause the fuel solenoid to shut the...

Toasty A5 card :)

Which TM are you looking at? The TM 9-6115-645-24 has a troubleshooting section in it in table 2-6 1. ENGINE FAILS TO CRANK. Step 1. Test for defective DEAD CRANK switch, paragraph 2-110.1. a. If DEAD CRANK switch is not defective, do Step 2. b. f defective, replace DEAD CRANK Switch, paragraph...

The Dead Crank switch does not disconnect the alternator. The alternator is always connected to the batteries unless you disconnect the batterry cables.

Actually all the MEPs have electronics in them. Items such as Voltage regulator, S14, Fault Monitor, Overload unit, Over voltage unit, Governor Controller... However the MEPs are deigned to meet the HAEMP spec MIL-STD-2169 so that they can survive a High Altitude EMP event.

Intentional damage to the set.

I do have new relays in stock if desired. The 5 rightmost relays are all the same. The one on the left looks like a relay but isn't. It's actually a Frequency Trip Switch. I have those in stock too if needed.

Sounds like the engine is surging due to a bad governor controller. It's a very common problem with the 831's. Both of the 831's I purchased had bad Governor controllers. I sell replacement controllers. They are listed in the Parts for Sale section of the Classifieds on the forum.

The Contactor (AC Relay) is operated by 24 volts DC. There should be stenciling next to the two smaller relays in that compartment. K2 is the Starter Relay (solenoid) K18 is the PreHeat Relay (solenoid) Here is a pic of K18 the PreHeat relay and the stenciling near it. Here a pic pointing...

Voltmeter could be bad. Use a hand held voltmeter and check the AC voltage across the two terminals of the front panel voltmeter to verify. What setting is the red switch in on the top of the inverter? Is the sets contactor closing? Does the contactor light illuminate?

The square Facet 40193 was the original factory fuel pump. The Facet 40193 had a high failure rate so when sets were reset or repaired the Airtex E1074 was installed as a reliability upgrade.

I believe the VR design is the same as the OEM one. Just repackaged using newer components and a different power transistor. Check with TripleJim to verify though.