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In anticipation of Maryland's vehicle safety inspection, I equipped my wife's HMMWV with reverse lights using a kit from Black Dog Customs.
I also installed a license plate light and an interior rearview mirror.
I decided that I really wanted to keep the truck as military as possible and I...
It's butt-fugly in a cool kind of way. If I ever got a tractor, I'd like an International Harvester Sightliner:
https://bangshift.com/bangshiftxl/bangshiftxl-spotlight/the-international-harvester-sightliner-definitely-fits-in-the-wtf-files-but-visibility-was-great/
You'll die of old age before you wire wheel that truck. Just hit the worst parts with the needle scaler and paint the whole damn thing with Gillespie Coatings.
https://www.armyjeepparts.com/t-GCI_paint.aspx
You can do the standard CARC 383 substitute but if you want to do Vietnam era colors...
On top of this information, we use MIL-STD-1108B which is essentially the military version of the FMVSS (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards) to prove that former military vehicles are indeed built with public road travel in mind.
I feel that with the right documentation and the right people...
I run my tires around 80psi for highway travel like the dash plaque says. I agree that you shouldn't take them up to 110 psi if they're dried out.
Like @Jbulach says, if you have a couple of buddies have one of them drive your dually in front of you and have the other buddy follow you with...
Yes, there's an air pressure gauge and a warning buzzer. Obviously, they may not be functional.
The compressor may be able to keep up with the leak. You'll have to get the engine running and charge the system to find out.
There are several soft lines that are easy to replace if you can find the...
Like eric said, if you don't have the air assist, even standing on the brake pedal may not stop you.
Ok, so it's 14 miles. What kind of miles? City, suburb, rural or cross-country? Your profile says "central FL." If you're driving that thing over I-4 near Orlando, forget it! If you're out in...
Ok, gotcha. I tried to slip the rear wheels in some mud last weekend and had no indication that the front axle engaged. I'm not even certain that I was able to cause the rear wheels to slip. In any case, it sounds like there is no noticeable indication.
I guess I'll find out if I get stuck!
Ouch. $1k for 14 miles. I paid $250 for similar transport.
You're right to transport it for safety reasons if you can't inspect/fix the brakes. Would the seller allow you to work on the brakes on his property? Then you could drive it home safely.
Sorry, let me rephrase the question:
I have the normal "sshht/thunk" when shifting between 1st and Reverse. What I'm asking is, during a loss of traction when the rear wheels actually slip and the front wheels engage, is there a noise or feeling to it?
I installed a beautifully rebuilt...
Man, that old soldier is rough.
If you have the time and space to mess with it, $1500 is good. I wouldn't try to drive it home though, not without going through the brakes. The dump mechanism is an additional system to go through, for safety.
Nice. I have an air hammer. I'll see if I can find a sharp chisel implement for it. I didn't think you could fit an air tool inside the box to knock off all the rivets but obviously you have.
Question: When performing this test, the air system should be pressurized either by running the onboard compressor or connecting a gladhand, correct?
The engine doesn't need to be running, just get air into the system?
Does the system make a noticeable noise or feeling when the front axle engages?
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