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My short answer is NO. Not safely, at least. Even if you managed to mount them on your stock wheels - which is not recommended - you would have to run some kind of spacers (3.5" min.) in between inner and outer wheels. And then you would be over the legal max-width limit, for on-road use...

Glad to hear that "happy end"... I mean the :beer:!

Yes. Not too long ago, our fellow member Tom Bauer (@m-35tom) used to have (and sell) all of the parts involved. (I got some goodies directly from him). Maybe contact him, first - after we know what exactly is needed. Next I would try White Owl in Kinston NC...

Sure - and I knew it, but didn't want to discourage you... Pulling the MS and disassembling it is not a problem if you have- or can borough a good lock ring pliers set and a (small) shop press. Eventually a bearing puller also, if the output bearing doesn't come off even after some heat-gun...

I guess the clutch is OK. Otherwise you can't shift from neutral into 1st or rev without grinding gears. That is, with truck stopped and engine idling. @Eracer46: It is clear that those are aftermarket synchros. But that doesn't mean they don't work at all. At least there are no signs of wear...

While stopped with engine idling and clutch depressed, if you can put it in any gear with no grinding but then it does grind when truck is moving, that means that the synchros aren't doing their job. Your tranny looks very nice, indeed. It must have been refurbished, not too long ago. Could it...

Except for the cover gasket, everything else you are showing there looks very clean and normal to me. (The tips on the forks are heat-treated; that's why they are blue.) Your hard-shifting issue may be caused by something further down in that box. Still, we want to check the condition of the...

LOL... all drums, actually! (sorry couldn't resist... :giggle:) Curious to know, where exactly...? (could you place an arrow in this drawing, below? (I've had a similar case once and was able to solve it by putting a different valve, closer to the wheel center disc. But that was only on two...

:ditto: Pretty sure 10.5x20 wheels never existed - not from factory at least. Most likely that dimension resulted from adding 2 times "c" to "a", according to this diagram, below:

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/glad-hand-leak-getting-worse.63188/post-749028

Time to pull the cover and take a look inside. Shift plate may be worn or cracked/broken. But there are other possible causes, too. Clean, inspect and shoot some closeups of all suspected parts. It is much easier to help you when we can see some pics.

It's fixed, so leave it alone! These two bolts serve as a pair of rails for the shift plate to slide left-right, besides each one holding a spring and a couple of spacer washers. Loose- or tightened- makes absolutely no difference in its function and to how the transmission will shift. From...

TM 9-2320-209-20-3-2 , 17-8. REAR SPRING SEAT REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/aftermarket-windshield-frames.193136/

All true... and personally I have done a lot of wheel modifications, too. But I do laser-cutting /welding /grinding on the lathe, in a way that you couldn't tell where the joint is. (And the finished product has zero runout, unlike what comes from factory...) What you have in mind goes a bit...

You could cut off- and then weld the outer bead sections of a 17" rim to the HMMWV rim, after cutting off its bead flanges. And the stock runflat may fit somehow but it would never really lock the beads of a 17" tire.

If the engine did not fire after cranking the bendix may remain engaged in the flex plate. Not a problem, since it will retract as soon as the engine starts, next time. Read this post and further down to #44

Very good thread! It is a sticky, now.

Wow... 80miles to get the groceries....?! I just looked at the map; that city must be San Angelo, or?

No? Amazon has the 50ml tube and others, too. Cheapest I found is $12.12 But maybe you have to add shipping, there. And Summit even has a 6ml tube, for $5.