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I know that. That's why I recommended that kind of sealant, and not be tempted to try to solve it with a (paper)gasket.
In the early days they used shellac-based stuff there. (Don't ask me how I know....:-x)
You may- or may not follow my advice; your choice.
That one probably comes without the set screw, so you will need one like this one....
It looks like your PTO output shaft is missing its key.
If you don't have it already, it takes a 5/16" x Ø 1.0", round bottom key (flat bottom will work, also). Search for "1008 Woodruff key".
Correct...
... from @100dollarman, I guess. (this post, 3rd pic)
Besides other details, there are not many bolt-together wheels with 16 bolts. Most MRAP steel wheels have 12.
No, I don't... That 2-1-333 flange may work for a M35 (gasser) if one wanted to use the A2 driveshaft, which already comes with the required 2-2-329 flange yoke.
But for a M35A2 it sticks too much out, so that the OP's stock (Multifuel) driveshaft would bottom out even before it could be...
And it is not...
See this old post for the correct dimensions...
Edit to add: Just finished checking out all the "usual suspects"... looks like that part can be added to the Deuce-hard-to-find items, nowadays.
But there it at least one possible source: https://www.ebay.com/itm/133267069542...
That is one solution, yes.
Not that I know of...
The internal thread of that large bore valve is the same as the external thread on any regular size tire valve. I cut the valve stem off of an old inner tube, then thread that end in the lathe and screw it in with Teflon tape and sealant. A...
They can easily be extended and bent to desired length and shape.
The one in the pic I just changed the tip, to end with a regular sized valve (7.7mm-32TPI ext. thread).
Yes, same way as the output shaft, by removing or adding shims.
After unscrewing the entire speedo-adapter you will be able to see/feel any play using a screwdriver and a small flashlight.
Don’t know about jet engines… but I have had cases where you simply don't have enough space all around- or sufficient free angle to comfortably turn a wrench, or pair of pliers.
Advantages of that improvised "cable"tool: a) there's only one handle/lever needed; b) it doesn’t have to go-on...
... And to completely avoid such a "stuck filter" situation there is one more little trick (this one I learned by myself): every manufacturer in the world tells you to put (engine)oil on the seal before screwing on. Well, don't do that; use silicon grease (= dielectric grease), instead.
I bet...
... But there is an "advanced" screwdriver trick - with absolute no mess at all!;)
Look in the scrap bin; all you need is a 5-6 ft leftover piece of PVC-insulated copper wire, something like a 2x4 mm² (12 AWG)
I learned this trick from an old ex-Navy mechanic who mostly had worked on the big...
In all my trucks I have always installed a 1000W Xantrex under the pass seat, mainly for power tools and small appliances when camping.
It would be a 24V to 120V/60Hz like this one here, in your case.
On new engines, the exhaust valves tend to get stuck from no-use, because of the very tight lip seal not allowing any oil to keep the guide and shaft wet, to avoid rust build-up.
First cranking then bends the pushrod which usually dislocates it from the rocker.
Turn the crank until that piston...
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