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... No, always move it forward - not back...! Park truck (going forward only) on a flat & even ground, then scribe a vertical line on the front of each tire, +/- in the center of tread. Measure distance between lines at axle height. Then roll forward another 1-1/2 revs and measure again. (=...

.... probably the fact that this being a MV, the designers choose parts interchangeability before parts longevity? And BTW, look at the full-time FWD M880-series: their #44 front diff. also spins "backwards" and still seems to last forever.

First paragraph and pics in your OP are clearly about changing out M37 wheel cylinders. The Conversations Forum is for topics that won't fit in elsewhere on the site.

Fixed the one in that quote, also...

That link is updated now.

Read this thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/wrecker-boom-winch-motor-need-new-seal.123863/ Post #12 has the seal number and dimensions.

Answer is NO. It's still the same old drum brake and shoes, and it would quickly overheat to the point where you have zero brake effect left. It was designed- and may be good enough- as a parking brake, but not as an emergency brake.

Expert? No. Experienced maybe, from having rebuilt quite a few and seen where they normally fail... The weak- or better say limiting link -(torque wise) seems to be the primary gears in the PTO, not the size of the shafts. So I guess that the given rating of 27hp @ 1000 rpm may well apply to...

Yeah, you'll find it quick - that's a big "hole"... or even more than one.:)

Here is another option, a bit cheaper: https://www.hawktet.com/product/hydro-act-actuator-damper-shock-part-number-1844-2/

Yes and no..... A flat rubber gasket like you describe would probably be squeezed out and rip apart even before you got all nuts torqued to specs. But a bead of silicone - or much better yet PU-sealant - instead of the O-ring, does work very well and I have proof enough of it. Separating both...

I would inspect it before changing the oil. It doesn't take too long to get the floorboard off and then remove the transmission cover.

Yes....... see it here (....... and maybe ask Gimpy ( @gimpyrobb ) if he has made some, already.....? :giggle: )

Really? Have you tried the usual sellers already like Memphis, Eastern, White Owl, etc...? Here's just one, after a quick search: https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/2670/COM-3041-PTO-Mounted-Transmission-M35A2 BTW, I also saw they have the drive shaft listed (at very reasonable $...

BTW: that very same wheel pictured above looked- and sealed perfect after a little TLC... even reusing the same old O-ring. Another suggestion - and something you don't find in the TMs: when reassembling these, cover both wheel halves with wheel bearing grease, where they contact each other...

Your wheel could look like this one.... And yes, if it leaks at the O-ring you may be able to confirm without removing the wheel. Check the front side as well, around each nut and/or holes. Best method I have found is to wet a sponge with soapy solution and squeeze it onto the suspected area...

Our Garwood front winches are reversible for left- or right-side input. I would much rather disassemble and flip components left to right, to be able to connect the drive shaft as designed.

Correct.

If you mean the 12.00R20 XML mounted on stock (7.5"-wide) Deuce rims, there have been no issues reported so far. Here is an old post: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/12-00-on-stock-deuce-rim-photo-needed.47571/post-538364 That truck belongs to a friend of mine. He's still driving it...

:ditto: