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How about what I've done to my Jeep in the last week?
Way too much to write now, so I'll sum up lol. Went to replace a damaged bumperette on the '52C and ended up putting in a whole new crossmember! Somewhere along the way, this old horse backed into something way more stout than it, buckling...
After almost six months, I finally pulled the voltage regulator out last week, popped the top off and found this:
Guess I can understand why the charging system wasn't functioning correctly now.
Ordered a new one, got it in this evening, and wouldn't ya know it, it finally has more than 23...
So, last week I decided to pull the regulator off. As I stood up with the reg in my hands, I caught a whiff of fried electrical. Took the cover off and found this:
It's now all good, got a new one swapped in, even stuck the old government plate on!
So, I've been trying to diagnose what I thought was a generator issue. Turns out it looks like I have a regulator issue. Generator testing determined output is good, climbed over 30V easily. At some point a solid state reg was installed, is there a way to test one of those? I know the old...
Finally got around to switching out the cannon plug on the light switch this evening. I'd originally tried to save it as best as possible, but the insulation was just too brittle. So I ordered a takeoff from John up at Midwest Military a few months back. Trimmed the old tape off, marked all the...
Oh aluminum, that does make it much trickier! I like 51's method then, won't hurt the ally but will eat the steel. Alum (the baking additive) will do the same thing, but I can't be sure what it may do to aluminum. I'm a goldsmith and use alum to eat away broken bits that get lodged in gold.
Me, I'd probably do some very fine finessing with a torch and cut the nuts off. And with the amount of heat that would be put through the bolts at that point may have taken some of the hardness away. And use a fresh Cobalt drill bit. Slow and a lot of cutting oil/ lube.
So do I need to retract? I was under the assumption that the charging system would remain constant throughout, but in light of your post, I would seem to be quite wrong lol.
Go back to your thread about wiring, find the picture I posted and go through the process that Wes describes to find out if it's the gennie or reg not allowing a charge. That should at least get you headed in the right direction. I'm still sitting on a charging issue...
It's funny how it all even came about. Dad was still alive when I first got it and it never crossed my mind what I'd mark it as down the road. Fast forward a few years, dad has passed, I made a FB friend who was doing his A1 resto when I was. He could trace his back to the MN guard unit it was...
Anytime, don't hesitate to ask if there's more that you need. In the M38/M38A1 group on FB, Wes Knettle is usually pretty good about answering the real technical questions as he's been around these machines for years.
Oof, so a few things, the schematic I posted will actually give you the info you need for most of that. I don't want to assume your vehicle is still 24V, with only the main power switch, but I will for this. One is power coming in, which is split out to the light switch and horn for constant...
Ok, so knowing that now, what is the issue? I ask only because I can't say I'm aware anything quite like that. Not that there isn't, if there's a TM that has an overhaul procedure for the gennie, it may include what you're looking for then.
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