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Any particular type or just air tool oil. How much, few drops or what?

Well, I found one that is supposed be NEW & not NOS. Guy said they bought it from the manufacturer less than a year ago

Hmm...... Good point.

So do you think I'd be better off spending $450 on a rebuild than $400 on a new one?

Well, I talked to the guy at Precision Rebuilders & he said he couldn't really give me a price till he looked the air pack over but it would probally be $450ish. Looks like I'll be buying a new one.

Ok, thanks for the insight. I will call em today & see what they say.

I would assume this companies rebuild is more complete than what we could do at home w/the $80 rebuild kit?

I need an extra cap for my power bleeder. Can the cap be had independent of the master cylinder? Apparently there are two sizes. The cap i kept to use is the small one & of course my new master cylinder is the big one. I've had no luck finding one so far. If anyone can point me in the right...

I have the long style on the truck. So the short long style are interchangeable? Whats the difference other than the size?

Will dot 3 cause air pack failure? I dont know how to tell the difference other than color but most of the old fluid i bled out was a clearish yellow color. Fairly clean looking but not purple at all. Does dot 5 loose its color w/age or water contamination?

Whats yalls thoughts as to integrity/longevity of new air pack vs rebuild?

Id feel alot better bout doing that in a steel line. This remote kit is kinda mickey mouse. The hose dont fit the barb very tight & have to crank the fool outa the clamp to get the hose tight. I feel sure it would leak if pressurized. On top of that im not sure its not air locked or something...

I installed a new master cylinder, built the power bleeder as yall suggested and it works great. I bled the air pack, then at the wheels, got lots of air at the wheels. My pedal still sinks to the floor 1st pump then 2nd pump its good BUT now its blowing fluid outa my slobber tube & i can hear...

Shipping to SC is about $200

The fiberglass looks like a decent option. Anyone have experience with them? I wonder how the hold up compared to the steel.

Ouch!!!

Well I decided I wanted a hardtop on the deuce & when i started looking around I bout fell in the floor. $1600+ everywhere I've looked! Wow! Thats got to be the single most expensive non mechanical part of the truck now. 8-10yrs ago the were under $500, guess i missed the boat. Even the soft...

Im thinking of putting a brass ball valve in the rubber hose for the remote reservoir. That way I don't have to make a mess & loose fluid every time I unhook it to use the power bleeder.

I'll have to crawl back under & look it over real good. I only saw one but I wasn't looking for a 2nd one so who knows.