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Well that's not good. I was sure it was 30 but I've been wrong before. Still though I ran a jumper from solenoid to the battery with the starter still on the truck & the ignition wire disconnected & it was blowing 30a fuses & then a jumper w/no fuse & it would arc, stick & start heating up. The...

NSN 2920013537036 I just re-tested both starters w/jumper cables connecting the batteries & got the same result. Solenoid engages for just a second & trips the circuit breaker in my Power Probe.

The slo-blo fuse is interesting. I've never seen those before. The wire that feeds 24v to the starter relay dose originate from a fusible link at the junction block. Maybe it was a bad idea adding another fuse just before the relay. But.... before I pulled the starter I ran a jumper straight...

https://youtube.com/shorts/udkQvc1z1OU?feature=share

I tried to post a video of the starters tripping the circuit breaker in my power Probe but it said the file was too large.

Ok I took that capacitor off just to see if it made any difference & it did not. Didn't really expect it to, just ruling things out. Looked over the wiring again, didn't see any bad spots. I took the starter off AGAIN & tested it and another starter I got on hand off the truck. Both starters...

What is this between the pos & neg junction blocks & how is not a dead short? Sorry if I'm asking stupid questions. Admittedly electricity is not my strong point.

Well, the more I mess w/this thing the weirder it gets. I just disconnected the negative battery cable & the starter is still hot. How is that even possible?

Of the 3 starters I have around here none have 2 small post. Just one big post for the battery cable & 1 small post for the ignition wire. I know it's hooked up right cause it worked for months before this problem popped up. Now watching that video I noticed the ground cable from his battery...

I'm going to start from the very beginning. When I bought my truck ( m1028 ) the starter relay had stuck on & burnt the fusible link on the firewall. For whatever reason instead of fixing it the previous owner rigged up a push button straight off the battery post to the starter solenoid. No...

Thanks but I can't take credit for it. It was on the truck when I bought it. I believe it was narrowed just enough where the width of the bed frame matched the width of the truck frame. There's a weld line down the center that wasn't on my deuce. It still sticks out past the cab a good bit on...

Post number 9 talks about the gauge being 12v w/a 300 ohm resistor on the 24v input. Is than not the case?

Fixing a bunch of little electrical stuff. Replaced burnt out gauge bulbs w/leds. Fixed non working voltmeter. Adding autometer temp gauge. I'll probably look at my non working horn while I'm at it.

That's a drop-side bed that's been cut down. It's almost square. 7ft & change both ways. It sits pretty high off the frame though. It's only got 35s on it & the bed floor is chest high.

Thanks for that explanation. Just learned something new.

Well, I put the resistor from Mouser in my stock voltmeter & it works but I'm confused. I haven't run the truck yet but when I switch the key on it get 25v on both sides of the resistor. The needle is at 12 o'clock. I thought the resistor was supposed to drop the voltage to 12v?

That looks like a nice option. Does it fit the existing hole?

Yeah I looked up that part number & saw the specs. Just wondering if the 1 watt resistor would work too.

I know this thread is old as the hills but I have a non working volt gauge in my truck I believe a new resistor will fix it. The 300 ohm resistors I'm seeing online are mostly 1 watt or 5 watt. Does it matter which one I use?

IN