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10-4 Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I've had a few square bodys but never had one w/lockers before.

I agree about not using Motorcraft but mostly because it seems like sacrilege being a die hard bow tie man. Just wondering if they were all the same stuff just branded differently. If I use something like Lucas 80w90 that is already limited slip compatible am I gaining anything by using the...

Ok. Thanks for that. So I only need the additive for my front axle. Does it matter which additive or are they all the same. So far I've seen Acdelco, Spicer & Motorcraft. I'm sure there are probably more.

After going over the LO I'm still confused about the differential additive. It says use the additive in the front but not the rear. Dosen't my truck have lockers in both ends? I have the dullay w/the dana 70 rear. Is it the same additive for the D60, D70 & 14 bolt or is it axle specific. Sorry...

Well I cut out the original starter relay & wired in a 12v 30a relay. Not the Ford starter solenoid type but it seem to be working. At least with the volt meter. I put an inline fuse on the 24v supply from the junction block just to be on the safe side. I know it has worked for a bunch of folks...

Well that's a thought. I reckon I'll check into the rebuild route. I could probably do it at the house if I can find parts. My starters not original. It's the gear reduction type. According to the previous owner it was rebuilt once before in 2014 by a shop in Barnwell SC.

Have yall ever heard of CME ARMA starters? They have a Miami address. Thought I saw somewhere they were made in the usa. I want a quality starter so it's not a reoccurring problem. Any experiences/opinions? I looked at the DB Electric starters, as cheap as they are it's tempting but I know...

To make it even better the heat shield on the starter has cut into the battery cable & shorted out. Pretty sure the starters toast. Fixed the shorted cable, got good voltage at both starter terminals. Clack, no spin.

I temporarily hooked up the burnt end of the fuseable link and everything works correctly at the relay plug & my gen2 light works now.

Looks like the original problem was the stuck starter relay. It burnt the fusible link on the firewall by the battery.

Ok, thanks. Yall can disregard that nonsense I said bout everything working but the starter & glow plugs. Now that I really look at it I got no gauge lights, no volt gauge & only 1 generator light. Awesome. More digging to come.

I agree 1000% I want to get everything electrical on this truck back the way it's supposed to be.

Well damn. I really hope I don't have to change the whole harness. Everything else seems to work correctly except starter & the glow plugs, my $ is on a bad glow plug card. As for the starting circuit, who knows why they put the push button in, bad ignition switch, stuck starter relay. I reckon...

My truck came with a push button for both the glow plugs & the starter. I don't mind the glow plug button but I want to fix the ignition so it spins over with the key like it should, but that's not my immediate problem. The hot wire to the starter button ran straight off the positive battery...

I got all my light issues fixed. Turned out to be a classic case of check the easy stuff 1st. Both bulbs were blown for the rear brake/turn & the reason the turn signals didn't flash & light up when you mash the brake, the hazards were on. Apparently the hazzard flasher is bad cause the weren't...

I'd say the cucv over a deuce. I've got both a M1028 & M35A2 & the M35 is getting sold. Unless you've got a real need for a 2.5 ton truck the cool factor of driving it around just because wears off pretty quick. To me the cucv is much more useful to the average guy.

My bad. I missed that one.

10-4 thank you

Never heard of Walker before but I like the way that's laid out with diagrams & part numbers. Thanks!

I appreciate the links but non of those threads address the question I asked. In all that the only mention of mufflers was one guy said he likes glass packs & another guy bought some cheapos from NAPA cause that all he could afford at the time. What I'm asking is can I use the same ol mufflers I...