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Thanks for the replies. I reinstalled my armored insert in the front yesterday and it didn't make a difference in temps. Still rides at 200 and the fan isn't cycling.

Anyone have any info on the Melton engine? That's what's in my 1045a2.

I have my reservations already.

Went for a test run down the interstate and under hard acceleration form a start, I saw 205 but it dropped down after gaining speed. So after returning , pressures were the exact same both plugged in and unplugged. So the power steering pump is fine. Fan noise when engaged wasn't as loud as...

So here is an update. Installed new cadillac valve and pressure gauge in fan line. Old valve ohmed 71.1, new one, 72.2; not a lot of difference so both theoretically good. Started up and cycled fan about a dozen times with pressure showing on the gauge over 100 psi with fan disengaged...

I hope it's a weak coil when hot but my gut feeling is a weak pump.

My new Cadillac valve came today so I hope to eliminate the weak coil theory.

I replaced my switch also. Determined it wasn't the problem because if you jumper the temp switch leads, the fan should disengage. Unfortunately mine doesn't. Thanks for the idea though.

I actually did straight wire the caddy valve at the very beginning just to be sure it was functioning and it was. I know it is working as I can unplug and replug ( if that's a word) the 2 or 4 connector on the TDM and the fan engages/disengages. I still suspect a possible weak coil on the...

Thank you for the replies but I think I have confused some of you. My fan used to come on at 215-220 and run until 190. Now after engine temp goes up to around 200, it won't go any higher because the fan won't disengage. I know it's hard to follow but here is more: I have an aftermarket...

I will try to keep this as short and understandable as possible. About a month ago I noticed that my 1045A2 temp was going up to 200 degrees and staying there and the fan wasn't cycling on and off. i did the normal check of unplugging the TDM and it was engaged all of the time. Took the clutch...

Took mine out and installed Centramatics. No complaints or issues so far.

The 1" Armaflex is what I have in my 1045 but finding the right adhesive to hold up to the heat from the sun has been a challenge.

No way I'd spend that kind of money to shave a few seconds off of acceleration times. My 1045A2 is fine by me. I drive it knowing it's intended purpose and fast acceleration from a standstill isn't what it was designed for. Top speed is plenty and comfortable which matters to me.

See post #17 above.

Just get the original ones. Not a bad price. https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/5685/Slant-Back-Rear-Hood-Gas-Spring-Cover-Assembly

So I got everything put back together today and all seems well. No problem with the transmission and it shifts normal. That was my biggest concern. No leaks from the welded pan or vibrations after a 15 mile run. Thanks everyone for their input and suggestions.

I had the same issue with mine. I lost 2 gaskets within a year. The problem was a warped head so I lapped it until it was truely flat and haven't had an issue in 5 years. So it isn't the gasket's fault.

So I got the pan welded up this weekend and it should be fine. Got to get new gaskets and filters and get this heavy chunk back in. Anyone know where to find a pan gasket? Then on to yokes and driveshaft.

Installed a " rear view mirror" in the slantback. Actually it's a digital dashcam/backup camera combo. I can see everywhere but the back seats!