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3118 is for the 400 amp 3135 is for the 200 amp or 100 amp. 3119 is for the 100 amp There are several others, such as N3114 having the same NSN as N3117, and both of those working in place of the 3135 on the 200 amp, though I believe the N3135 is a newer version. So to answer why not, because...

a very quick look in the parts manual showed me that the front and rear differential are the exact same part number for all A2 trucks.

BF Goodrich KM2 tires with a DOT rating on them, and in a standard automotive wheel size (17"), so I don't see why they wouldn't be road approved? image taken from one of the govplanet auctions Rim appears to be 6 lug, which is standard size for 5k axle. beadlock rims look pretty nice...

...and all of your halfshaft bolts at the brake flange end.

So for milemarker mounting, I put the SEC12 winch onto the hydraulic winch mount plate from milemarker, and bolt holes all lined up perfectly, so if the A2 winch plate bolts to the hydraulic, the electric is the same footprint.

That manual is for the ECV/REV series of trucks. The M1097A2 is part of the earlier series of trucks, so the manuals you need are a little different. This link is to all the TMs on this site for the truck you have. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/tms-for-the-m998-series-hmmwv.78861/

I'm not as familiar with wiring the radio stuff, but I don't see why that wouldn't work.

If you are running 12V equipment, you will want to use a quality 24-12V converter, like the Victron Orion series. You can NOT just hook 12V stuff to the rear battery unless your truck has the dual output alternator in it, which wasn't common in the 3 speed trucks...

So as long as you get a matched set of batteries (same size, rating, and if possible same production date) then it doesn't matter. If you use the search function at the top left of the page and search this forum for batteries, you will come up with a lot of threads, as this is a commonly asked...

Not only scream, but if you try to drive at high speeds, you're likely to destroy the 400 amp alt as well as damage the electrical system in the process.

With the 400 amp alt and the tach getting it's signal from the alt, it also depends on what size pulley is on the alt for what the tach reads. 2800 rpms at 55mph in 4th gear sounds kind of high, at the same level as trucks with the small pulley on the 400 amp generator in other threads...

Yes, but it's also showing that there is only one valve stem assembly, and that isn't true because the E range have a different hole shape. If one thing is obviously wrong, then who knows what else is also wrong.

AM General is kind of 2 faced about it. A year or so after they sent out that letter, they opened up a website to sell HMMWV parts directly to civilians, rather than having to go through distributors.

All I can find so far is that the load range E wheels have the round valve stem hole in them http://psmag.radionerds.com/images/0/0d/PS_Magazine_Issue_772_March_2017.pdf

Also looking at the HPG website, they list one rim stud for all wheels with 12 or 24 bolt pattern.

Looking at the HPG website the 24 paired uses a different valve stem than any of the others https://www.hummerpartsguy.com/VALVE-STEM-RIM-24-BOLT-PAIRED-LOAD-RANGE-E_p_24881.html

I found a copy of the 2009 revision of the ECV/REV parts manual. Only lists a single part number for the valve stem for both LR-D and LR-E wheels. Looks like the difference between the valve stem is the 24 bolt wheels have the letter D at the end assuming you're talking about part #12 in the...

You trying to find this page by any chance?

Just for reference, you won't find the M1097R1 in any manuals. Some of them are M1097A1, and some are M1097A2 trucks. The R1 at the end is because they went through a recapitalization program, basically a rebuild to bring them up to M1097 specs from whatever variant they were before that...

If you have a really big lathe then it would probably be pretty easy, but with the size and weight of the runflat rubber it's probably more expensive to ship it anywhere to have it done than just buying the PVC bead lock from whoever is making them at the time (it seems to go back and forth...