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I know some poo poo them, but now is the time for a remote reservoir if you want one. I put one in when I put in my new master cylinder and it made both filing the master (cleanly!) and bleeding the line between the master and air pack a piece of cake. I also now have another thing to check...

Well... I haven't done mine yet as I have only one broken fastener and the only leak I can tell is if I've been idling and it loads up unburned fuel in the exhaust. I've been working on safety and reliability issues first and foremost so this one has been put on the back burner with so many...

Bolts on the outside and studs on the inside. I just went through this. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/exhaust-manifold-to-turbocharger-broken-stud.210540/#post-2460008

Ok, my belt dances like that video, too. I don't think there's an issue with my pulley, though.

I was chasing gremlins today and noticed that my compressor belt "dances" quite bit but doesn't seem loose. Historically, belts I've seen on engines stayed pretty straight but mine seems to move a good bit. I'll try to get a video.

This topic seems to get quite a bit of attention over and over so I'll add my .02. I've considered these options: stay with the 9R20 but all the excess inventory is pretty dry rotted. Find some 11R20s that are maybe a bit newer all around so I'm still "stock looking". G177s on stock rims...

I just got 6 spindle lock washers from the above ebay link. They are most definitely new old stock. Wrapped in sealed bags with brown paper and stamped with the NSN listed in the 34P. The flanges are longer so I assume they will be good to go. If you are planning on doing any brake, bearing...

Another update. I got the bleeder screw to stop leaking by taking out the old and giving the brake pedal a quick tap to squirt some fluid. In with the new screw and tightened down but then discovered it was also leaking from the bolt just below that in the air pack. I circled in the diagram...

Got both rear axle sides done. Passenger was way worse than driver but both had very loose axle nuts and cork seals pretty well shot. One of the axle hub bolts is threaded the whole length and 1/2" shorter than the others so I'm off to the hardware store to try to find a grade 8 replacement...

Ha! I ordered 12 from that very vendor so I'd have them for the future. For the time being, I reused an old one on the left as it had two good tabs left. On the passenger side I tried to bend those retaining tabs down so I could get it on and they both snapped off. I put the wheel on for the...

I guess in a pinch I could break off those tabs and bend two of the uppers forward and two other uppers backward and still use them but I'd prefer a proper fit. I'll get the part number from the 34P and see what I can find. Thanks! *** Edit *** part number from 34P is 5310-00-752-1650...

I got the bendable tab locking washers from two different dealers and they act/look exactly the same. In both cases, they don't fit. The tabs facing inward are too short to go over the nut. I'll reach out to Mike and see what he says. The other one was from Real Custom Trucks and they are...

Holy Big Nuts, Batman! I got my nut buster from amazon today. I made sure to get one with the "square" adapter. I put it on each nut and rotated (it was fun). Since it took about 15-20 lbs of pressure from the hand crank and I bought the 58:1 unit, it took about 870 to about 1160 foot pounds...

I recently went through the whole process of flushing out my system. I would encourage you to read my thread for some of my adventures and maybe a tip or two. I suspect someone went aftermarket on the radiator as from what I've seen the OEM ones are expensive to buy and ship nevermind harder...

The front one had obviously been replaced at some time as it was brass-ish looking and clean. The rear and intermediate are questionable. I'll probably just replace both before I get back on the road but, at a minimum, that is on the to-do list before I button it up and go joyriding.

It appears that just maybe the rear driver and intermediate lugs haven't been removed in a very, very long time. Inner lugs aren't coming out. I don't want to buy a $300 impact as my compressor isn't going to drive it without burning it up. Off to google and a little searching and I found a...

Thanks! I know they seal by seating and not threads but the screw itself appears to be steel and not brass so it's going to take a lot to get it to seat if it is galled or in any way not flat/rounded on the end. I replaced the master because it was old and appeared to be leaking from more than...

I labored over it and got the masterpro high temp red wheel bearing grease in the 4lb tubs from Orielly using a 30% off discount code.

The bleeder screw is the one on the air pack where the line comes out of the back of the master cylinder into the "top front" of the air pack. I didn't get any kind of replacement with the new master cylinder. I believe they are the same as the wheel cylinder bleed screw but, of course, my...

I have installed my remote reservoir and the new master cylinder. I got a new line from Mikes and it is now installed. Unfortunately, brake fluid is oozing slowly around the bleeder screw on the air pack. Should I replace it or pull it and put some paste thread seal on it? I've tightened it...