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Welcome. The only place that these numbers will be is under coats of paint on your hood and bumpers. If your truck has been sandblasted, they are lost. Sand carefully to find them. You might find several iterations of these numbers as trucks were repainted often.

I've been using this as a CARC substitute forever now, holds up well in the weather. Super flat black, available at any SW store.

Mil 270s are different from civilian engines with these added features: PCV valve and vent line from the top of valve cover. Steam tube on the head which has something to do with water flow at severe operating angles Oil pan on mid 42 and later trucks have the second lower oil pan, again to...

Serial stamping is on the vertical surface of the frame rail. The Chevy telephone earth boring truck is indeed a rare bird. ‘42 was the transition year to wood beds, could be either depending on numerous factors that we can ask about in the next life.

Saw this in my doomscroll feed today, I always thought that BAE and subsequently Oshkosh supplied cab and chassis to Lockheed Martin for the assembly of HIMARS trucks. Nope, LM builds the trucks from the frame up right there in Arkansas.

CCKWs on the other hand DO have their serial stamped on the frame, and the suffix letter gives some clue as to what the truck was when manufactured. All CCKW serial numbers are either CCKW or CCKWX (early 1941), then 352 (short wheelbase) or 353 (long wheelbase), then a suffix letter which can...

The vacuum line is the super important venting line that sucks hot ionized air out of the distributor. Without that venting happening, the points and coil will burn up.

Pull codes on the WTEC. Sounds like a power interruption.

That petcock on your gas tank might get torn off if you get too carried away at the mud park.

Look into the Rod Hall suspension set up equipped on GMV HMMWVs. Eastern Surplus has these trucks for sale. Basically set up for Baja as is.

CV joints make kind of a clatter sound when they go out.

Remove the injectors and see what is going on inside.

Agree. In the transfer case, only a stub shaft outboard of the engagement would be turning. If anything I would think that 15 tons on the wheellift is quite a bit but that is not your problem.

Yeah what you have to do is search that database for entries that list the correct registration (hood) number and then interpolate to estimate yours. Unfortunately the database can’t be queried for registration numbers, says they are working on that.

V configured engines don't fit either chassis due to the steering gear being in line with the frame rails.

Power from the transfer case input shaft to the output shaft is all through gears in both ranges. Any "slippage" would be heard as horrible grinding. Check to see that the high/low range shift rail is adjusted properly.

Try here: G503 Serial Number Database

If that were the case, the starter would engage if you turn the key to ON with the engine not running. Sounds like it's time for a reman starter.

So you advocate spending your money with Shenzhen Unishine Optoelectronics Co LTD as opposed to Truck-lite or JW Speaker who's designs they ripped off.

Looks to me like 5 ton combat wheels that have been modified with 6 hole centers. Check the welds carefully before using anything home made.