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I don't know what the decibel levels are for the 802a vs the 831a but I find the sound from my 831a is more irritating than from my 803a. The 831a has a higher pitch. I would advise listening to both before you decide if you are worried about neighbours
Look up Prestolite Leece Neville 24V alternator on Ebay. There is one there for around $68 that is brand new. The NSN is in one of the photos. Check it before ordering. The one I got for a spare is identical to the OEM alternator on my 803A. See Green Mountain for an explanation of the...
I was messing around with my 803a and decided to see what it could do. I loaded it up similar to Daybreaks hard load. I was surprised that the 3 amp fuse in the fuse mod blew before the overload protection came on. It handled the load [about 137%] unbelievably well until the fuse went. Does...
Interesting discussion. My 803A runs at about 185 degrees which I find high but seems to be the norm. With this coolant the temps are apparently going to be even higher. Will the 803A Overtemp sensor cutout?
I thought I had read everything on the 803A but obviously I have more to learn. I have been cranking it right tight. So I assume you turn it to the first resistance and not to the final stop?
I think what saved me was that I have an aluminum insert on the top of the tank that the wellnut fits...
I would go with the 803 also. The 802 vibrates way more and if the 803 is being used for sporadic outages fuel economy isn't really much of an issue. You may have the odd long term outage but over a 10 year period I suspect the usage will be minimal and not a factor. I would rather have excess...
My 500 hr 803A had constant oil pressure at 28, with 15w40 oil. My 15 hour unit also had constant pressure at 28 after warm up, with 10 w30 JD break in oil.
Same here. My 2007 803A had 15 original hours. I put in JD break in oil and I am now at 41 hours. It usually averages about 40-50 % during a power outage so I load bank it with a variable 80 to 110% load afterwards to make sure it is getting broken in properly.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?138105-NO-FUEL-error-on-802a-803a-when-there-is-actually-fuel-in-the-tank. Here is a link to a post from Zarathustra I found very helpful.
That is very true but if you are at the stage where you can adjust the height how much longer would it take to take 5 screws out and inspect the sender. If you do a search you can find out how to use a multi meter to see if it is defective, you can clean the crud off the tube so the floats can...
A photo from the filler neck isn't going to show you much. The important dimension is 1/16 inch from the bottom for the lower float. The upper float on mine is barely below the 90 degree bend in the tube. If the floats aren't in the correct position loosening the collar and lowering the assembly...
I think GP is in the transitional stage and many more units are backlogged to be auctioned. Having been burned big time at Fort Drum in the past with GL I am very happy to deal with GP even though the reserve is higher. I don't think the increased prices have anything to do with the auction...
I have the wrench and it is a PITA. As Guyfang advised previously you have to cut off part of the handle to make it work. I use a metal wrench. Whether it is plastic or metal it is not safe to use when the generator is running so why would you use a crappy too long plastic wrench?
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