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I have had mine for 3 years and I am really not comfortable going over 45MPH with it, both because of the single-circuit brakes and also the many ventilated blocks we've seen from members here (some of whom didn't even push it to extremes). You've got to remember this engine, this truck, was...

My truck came from the KY Nat'l Guard with fuel cans already mounted on the rear mud flaps. I run WMO so I'm not too nervous to have them full back there.

Today: using a small paint brush duct-taped to a coat hanger wire to paint over rust (with Paint Over Rust) on the inside of my doors. No pics because one hand holding the brush-on-a-stick, one hand holding the flashlight. This is not a lot of fun but it's easier than finding rust-free doors.

Per the advice of George at White Owl, I'm in the process of re-locating the same (hydraulic) switch to the air side. He said they have experienced multiple failures with foreign-made air-side switches, and they have had better results doing it this way.

Went to NAPA today and found a couple of parts towards plumbing in the switch on the air side but still a few pieces short. Would help if I knew what I was looking for instead of just picking up and test-fitting everything I see. But getting there! Edit: the ladies working NAPA on a Saturday...

Tagging this to see your progress--I have been meaning to check and see how this was going. Looks like a good start!

I'm using Rustoleum rusty metal primer and Gillespie 24087 paint.

Didn't get any painting done this week because...

I was able to get the piston halves apart by cutting back the old rubber cup with a knife and then sticking a small screwdriver in between, carefully, so as not to mar the metal. I seem to have found 2 o-rings that are NOT in the rebuilt kit. The one between the piston halves is beveled to fit...

The online sources for new-old-stock OHT that I can find state that it is a PETROLEUM-based oil, not mineral.

Moving on with this, I've got the nut off the big piston but the halves didn't separate. I guess I need to pry them apart? Also, the TM calls for a "felt ring" but my rebuild kit came with just a strip of felt. Is this correct or is mine torn?

Not going to make it for Memorial Day; goal is to be ready before Independence Day. But the weather will play a factor, we'll see!

Working on doors lately and also rebuilding the air pack.

Shoot, I'm still struggling with this. I got a new switch from White Owl but...it's the same switch I already had. I talked to George about it and he said they have successfully moved that same switch over to the air side, BUT it must have a different thread than the normal air upgrade switch? I...

I think you're leaking some oil there. :wink:

Any comment on the above? (this is the problem with using old threads, they tend to be ignored after a while...)

I have discovered this little bit of corrosion inside my air cylinder, but it seems apparent that it is NOT in the path of the moving piston--too close to the "lid" for that. Would you fill it with JB Weld and sand it down, or just ignore it? It's not really rusty now, just missing some metal...

Could the washer be your spring retainer from the air piston side? Mine is a little different but also much newer. Looks like maybe about the right size, though--just a guess!

Nice-looking stuff inside! Isn't this supposed to be the "air" side? To add something useful to the thread: Getting the "plug" off the fluid end (where the brakelight switch used to be) was the toughest thing I've done so far. Couldn't accomplish anything in a vice. Put a box-end wrench...

Answering my own question: a lot of brake fluid comes out of the air pack when you disconnect the lines, but not much comes out of the lines. Easier to clean up than capture, mostly. Uh oh, mine says do not disassemble!