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Here is a description of various connection diagrams for the generator. https://www.marathongenerators.com/generators/docs/manuals/Connection%20Diagrams.pdf

I'm OCD on stripped bolts. Helicoils, always. You can install one with the pan installed.

It's normal for the light to stay on until you bump the throttle.

Did you use the Gates brand belts? They're the only ones that tolerate the CUCV setup.

You can replace one. They're expensive right now. 3 years ago new injectors were $25 a piece. They're closer to $50 each right now.

From your picture, I don't think that is enough bubbles to indicate a misfire causing head gasket leak. Crack injector lines to see if you can pinpoint the misfiring cylinder. There will be no change in idle when you hit the bad one.

That sounds like a misfire. Are you getting any bubbles in the radiator?

Do you have an acetylene torch? Once the cage is off turn the spindle upside-down and heat the inner race a rapidly as you can. It will fall right off.

A bit late but I must add a correction about surge and stall. They are too separate conditions. Surge is a lack of flow through the compressor wheel. The compressor needs flow to create a load and keep it from overspending. A clogged air filter can cause surge. Stall is a lack of flow through...

Are you sure it's the rear? The Dana 60 front axle is notorious for causing death wobble.

You just shove the new tube in the hole. I usually put a little silicone sealant on the end of the tube.

It may be rated for more. I'm just assuming it's rated, at a minimum, to meet the output of the stock engine.

If you put a 2:1 gearbox between the 6.0 engine and transmission you will likely exceed the torque rating of the transmission. 2 x 380ftlb = 760 which is greater than 425 ftlb.

Torque at the crankshaft is unimportant, it's horsepower to the wheels that matters. If you change the gearing to work with the 6.0 it will outperform the 6602. Of you change the gearing to work with the 6.0 it will likely not work with your budget.

At idle it can take engines quite a while to come up to temp. This isn't ideal. It can also be caused by bad thermostats. Since the water in the oil isn't back it's probably ingestion through the intake or exhaust.

What is your cranking speed? 250-300 rpm is the cranking speed for most engines I come across. I don't know about yours specifically.

A tire has 3 layers. There is an inner layer that holds the air in, a reinforcement layer for strength, and an outer protective layer. The inner two are the most important and the least visible. Some amount of cracking in the outer layer is tolerable but if it exposes the reinforcement, that can...

GM has been using a thixotropic gelled calcium sulfonate coating on their vehicles for time now. It's supposed to perform better than e-coat and is self healing. It can also be used on marginally prepared surfaces. The price is reasonable...

Looks correct to me. They came stock with the gray.

What is the condition of your batteries? I used to get this on the early common rail John Deere engines. The pump wouldn't make enough pressure to start at normal cranking speeds. Jumper cables gave enough of a speed boost to get the engine started and it would continue to run normally...