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I would put th zerk back on. With the correct grease, u-joints can easily go 100k+ miles between lubrication intervals. Grease will never work it's way in as centrifugal forces will tend to cause things to move outwards.

I ran into this problem as well. I think the universal parts catalog has the wrong mounts listed for the k30. Order your mounts for any other 4wd of that vintage or get the inserts from a popular polyurethane vendor.

I have had issues with the copper/brass aftermarket radiators. The tube the sensor mounts in is too long and traps air. The plastic/aluminum radiators seem to work fine.

I work in an industry famous for hoarding. I see Hoover brand bearings here and there. They predate polyurea grease and rubber seals so I don't ever install them.

The air leak is probably the throttle shaft on the DB2 pump. When mine leaked the truck would start and idle fine but die after driving 50 feet. I never did let it idle for 3 minutes so I don't know if it would have died without driving it. It would start again after 30-60 seconds of cranking...

Can you buy the black and white one, scan it, use photo editing software to add the yellow field, and then email it to one of those mail order sticker printers?

Did you look at the diagrams? It's a lot more complicated than delta or wye. You said initially that you were running 240 and 120 which is available with the "parallel low zigzag". This is single phase. 208Y/120 is 3 phase and would be available from the parallel wye configuration. Check the...

You can use single phase regulators on 3-phase generators. This works fine if you have primarily 3-phase loads but can result in imbalance if you have primarily single phase loads. Confusing, eh? You can test the generator by connecting a 6 volt lantern battery to the field. What is your...

For future reference, if you want to dry something out, put it in your oven at 250 °F. It's not hot enough to damage the rubber or grease in the short term and will evaporate all water.

The SAE intro makes the same statement. Fuel viscosity/lubricity were not contributing factors to pump failure. The recommendation was to test for oxidation and corrosion from the fuel. This is usually evaluated with the copper strip test (ASTM D130).

Southwest Research Institute studied the use of JP fuels in the DB2 pumps. There is ZERO issue with lubricity. https://apps.dtic.mil/sti/pdfs/ADA234930.pdf

It should be the same mounts for all of those engines. The 4x4 has a heavier duty mount than the 2wd.

2000 mile rebuild needs to be degreased?

You can't clear water out of the system in this method. I would suggest replacing the wheel cylinders. Hot oil circulation is the only way to get water out of these types of systems without bottom drains.

If you were able to get your hands on some silicone or PFPE vacuum pump oil they are more dense than water and you could float the water out of the system. They would keep any future water up in the master cylinder where it can be removed.

It drives! FYI, this road is really bumpy and going fast with the Dana 60 requires some steering input. https://photos.app.goo.gl/b6UGztmsEtMoHnwaA https://photos.app.goo.gl/vGEBVbX6zbqMdXc37

I would suggest rebuilding your brake calipers. Mine were full of water. Can't flush it out with DOT 5 fluid.

I think you would have a hard time getting the material clean enough to use those aluminum brazing rods.

You can pull the rockers and reinstall without needing to adjust the valves. They'll go right back to the same position. I wouldn't bother retorquing the heads. If it leaked coolant into a cylinder, it's fried. But it probably isn't coolant you found. The water in the injection pump is...

If you do weld it, the first pass is going to look like garbage. It floats all of the gunk to the surface. Grind it down and run another pass and all will be good. If yo go the epoxy route you need to be able to wash the part. Caustic degreasers can be rinsed off with water. Once it's clean...