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That truck would be worth $6-7k out here in California. If the rust level is low.

Don't mix those two things. The sodium hydroxide in drain cleaner degreases everything. It's then rinsed and then dipped phosphoric or sulfamic acid to remove oxides. If there is any oil on the surface at all, the acid won't make contact and won't clean. You could also consider putting it in...

Its a 1977 Dodge W20 with a 318 engine and 727 transmission, the drivetrain parts are all readily available. You're going to have to go through the same routine you would with any 46 year old vehicle; renew seals gaskets, and hoses. Carburetor rebuilds are routine maintenance.

Don't use lock washers if you don't need them. They provide a moisture path to the threads of the bolts and cause seized fasteners. Locking compounds work better if you think they need them. Wedge lock type washers are for high temperature where compounds don't work.

Excess idling will plug a cat. The turbo outlet o-ring does age over time but it requires a lot of hours to do unless maybe the truck was parked in the desert. I put a silicone o-ring on mine. -408 was the size. A dab of PTFE grease makes it assemble and disassemble easily.

You need to replace the filter. The sediment in the bowl isn't clogging it.

If it's down on power and surging start with the fuel filter.

The truck will take any engine you throw at it. The challenge is finding an accessory rack that will support the dual alternators. You can buy 6.5 NA GEP engines but I assume you don't like the price tag. Those will work with your existing accessory rack. I'm putting a center mount turbo engine...

Got the doghouse fabricated. I used corrugated posterboard and hot glue to make the shape. 3/4 inch clearance around everything. I hope that's enough when the engine flexes in its mounts. Used 1"x3/16 Nomex tape to make the flange. The rest of it is lightweight woven roving and West System. No...

Detroits with a hydraulic governor go to the no fuel position when there is no oil pressure (engine not running). The older Detroit Diesel engines had a fixed fuel rack that contributed to the runaways. When an injector fails and gets stuck, that cylinder stops firing but the stuck injector...

Can you put the drain plug from your new housing in the old one? Otherwise, you're going to have to thread the hole and install a set screw with some permanent Loctite.

2-stroke oil is the best fuel stabilizer you can get. Mix it up 50:1. Those old engines won't know the difference. Use the good synthetic stuff for dirt bikes, it's low ash.

The other question is why do you need to replace your housing?

That sounds like 8 burned out glow plugs. You have an ohmmeter?

You're only draining a little bit. If any air does get in, the DB2 pump has provisions to clear it out.

Does it have a water in fuel indicator? No need to drain unless the indicator is illuminated.

At 40F the truck manual recommends holding the pedal at 1/2 throttle during start. At 90F it will start without the glow plugs of you hold the throttle at 1/2. It sounds like you have a glow plug problem. Can you hear the relay cycling during a start?

Have you checked the glow plugs? What is the ambient temperature?

It was discussed here recently. https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-m1009-has-died-new-curve-ball-thrown-updated.211228/page-4 Rock Auto is in error to list the 0030 number as compatible.

Top brand name tires are readily available up to a metric equivalent of 33x10.5 on the 16 inch rim. If you want to go 37" you are SOL unless you want some Chinese mud bogger tire.