Search results

You can call a rigger (not a tow truck) and they'll come out and do it properly with a small crane truck. You won't like the price though, like a couple hundred each time. Call around. If you are real flexible, I am passing through LA... sometime in the next couple of weeks. I've got a service...

Another way to look at this Russ is he thought your insight would be valuable and wanted to see more of it for the benefit of everyone. It's frustrating to find someone who had the same problem I have, only to never get to a solution. Then you have to be that guy who grave digs the thread back...

That's interesting. About the pulley, mine seems to use the original belts. I got to replace them when I had my problems and used the part # off the spreadsheet.

I am with 74M35A2, I just pay full up, with the correct title and weight (including the trailers which AZ drivers seem to forget since apparently you title for the combination, surprise!), and I expect to not have a problem. Then again I drive my truck a lot more than twice a year, and for many...

Not necessarily. There was a 200A option, which mine has.

It's not for-hire in your scenario, unless he has, or by agreement intends to, pay you for the service of transport. If you give me $2 for a $2 thing, or $2 for a $1 thing and I bring you the thing and change, it is not for-hire. If you keep the change "for your trouble", it is. Providing...

To be "for hire" you would have to transport the slurpee for payment. "An authorized for-hire motor carrier transports passengers, regulated property or household goods owned by others for compensation." - DOT

Here's hoping I fix my LMTV and make it back to Arizona before then... I've been gone so long now waiting for parts I might be single by the time I get back!!!

I might be over-simplifying here but I never understood why the alt puts out 14 at all. Why not just dump 28 into the batteries and pull the 12/14 by tapping them in half. I suppose it's so the truck can hypothetically run without batteries if it was jumped?

The LMTVs are in no way safe. On a related note: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?149191-LMTV-MV-Safety-Improvements

Unfortunately the corollary would be "The only dumb answer is one not provided", and we know that not to be true...

Forgive my ignorance of these old engines, but is this not as simple as a breaker bar on whatever passes for a crankshaft pulley bolt and turn?

So... you can't tell if the batteries are charging or not when driving down the road? Or are you telling yourself you can from the voltage gauge, which I suppose would be true.

"plug and play", I thought that you had to change the battery array configuration to make it work (per another thread). Am I mistaken?

+1 to the wet air meets cold temps idea. And boy that must have been an UCE (underwear change event)...

So in terms of getting the radiator out (it's an assembly with the charge cooler), 160 lbs, I realized that... I have the LMHC crane. Turns out if you put that in the front corner pocket of the bed and remove the air intake stack it swings nice over the engine. I don't know if the weights work...

So far as I know they are all the same. Or anyways I've gotten the cables from all over different places and never had a problem. A multimeter will tell you for sure, of course.

We already recommended that you rotate the tires for prolonged wear. But I am with smilke, I don't see the size difference being a contributing factor to drive-line whine when loaded, or really, any much of a problem at all. Some AWD systems in some vehicles are temperamental about tire diameter...

What problem are you trying to solve exactly? All you said earlier was "flat spots"

As has been pointed out to you, the fmvss does not apply here. You'd be right if it did, but it does not, so quoting the fmvss further does no good. If you want to refute the nhtsa letter, then by all means make your case, but quoting the fmvss over and over is not going to make your case, since...