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Correct me because I am old and can not remember a thing. Thought the 939 series truck had the inner grease seal changed to the seal installed in the hub?

That's good for you bad for me. Thinking maybe need to double check delivery valve as maybe some more crud has worked it's way into it. If I remember after you remove the delivery valve you can turn on the in tank pump and let it run and see if any crud comes out. Maybe catch it with a paper...

Well that can also happen if the main fuel control is set to low. If he can get it to Idle with his finger then we will get into adjusting the main fuel control. When he can start it as he has done the 6 o clock position is more than enough for the truck to run. Might even be real high idle.

Diesel fuel algaecide for microbes. There is also Asphaltenes and that is the black taffy looking stuff that will gather in the bottom of the tank. Product FuelOx for Asphaltenes will help. Just went to a friends house that has an LMTV and some starting problems. I took off the fuel tank fill...

What this test is going to do is eliminate the possibility of the main fuel adjustment being set to low.

You might try the bounce video way. It would be a pain if it lock every time when you are working / drawing back all the way. Been years but if I remember draw it back and at the last moment let the control lever go don't hold it. Helps if the crowd is folded and bucket is folded up for transport.

Sell me the truck cheap. If you want to try something. Remove the timing cover ( some call it the shut down cover but it is called the timing cover). Yea there will be some motor oil there and it should be. Now with a helper to turn on master and hit start button you are going to work the fuel...

Seems like the Case's I have run you have to do like the Video and bounce them up there. See how he released the control and then went forward with it and it locked. Take a couple of times practice but once you learn you got it.

99% of the time if we know some fuel pressure to the head is flowing, delivery valve is working and fuel control unit assembly is working free it will be the timing button.

Myself replaced with a Nyloc nut.

I would leave the center cap alone till you check the delivery valve. There has been one or two problems with it leaking after removal. Yes it is lefty loosey. Check your other thread you started and click on the link to a thread that shows where and about the delivery valve. Here I will post...

Welcome from Interlachen. Look on the bright side you got a free broom to help clean up the mess you make working on it. That truck looks like they trailered it there with the couple of wheels with lugs nuts not on tight or on right. Myself I would have it trailered out and bring lug wrench to...

Had a truck power divider was not working. Air line had a good crack in it by the axle so quick fix. By flipping the switch in cab you should have full air pressure at axle if you remove the air line from axle. No air more problems.

Well your not going to get fuel at the injectors without the engine running or at least spinning over. Also you do not need to bleed the Deuce injectors. You do need the in tank pump working to bleed all fuel filters after filter change at the bleed between the secondary and final. Did you...

Not dumb what ever you think is best. Yep cleaning them up is a good thing before install. Here is the response from Meritor to me post #79 Wheel Lug Nuts & Studs and Anti-Seize | Page 4 | SteelSoldiers

Believe you are correct about the TM Frank plus no wheel manufacture ever said to use anti-seize only light oil. To each his own but I looked on my can of anti-seize and it no longer says for wheel studs. Just my .02 but light oil and the threads under the nuts seem better shape than the ones...

Yea mine were to much trouble to play with so I cut them down here at home. Also my truck did not have any diaphragm problems when I brought it home. Here he is picking up a un known truck so it might be better to have the cut ones on hand. He can play with it when he gets it home as there are...

Most all of the time all we worry about is the red scribe mark and the head pointer being on mark then remove. I say most because when the head is installed correctly when we go to remove it ever again we line up the head red scribe and pointer and pull head. Now there has been motors with head...

Dang still reading through all 18425 pages of all the TM's left so guess when done I will have to play catch up on the PS magazine. Thanks a lot.