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That will do it. Use a brass brush for cleaning the nozzle. Just put a piece of paper down on the bed to collect debris, and scrub it gently with the brush (while heated to temp).
https://smile.amazon.com/Brushes-Scratch-Toothbrush-Cleaning-Welding/dp/B07P6HF4NL/
The other thing to mention with the filled filaments (fillings such as carbon fiber, fiberglass, metal powders, etc.) is that they are extremely abrasive. Make sure you have hardened nozzles, and any other upgrades your printer type may require. This is especially true with the carbon fiber...
Straight nylon, like string trimmer line, is probably too soft for this application. The nylon itself will have much better impact resistance than PETG (or others), but significantly less strength to absorb the abuse in the thin areas. When I was talking about nylon, I meant a nylon filled...
That wasn't my point at all. He was making parts of the seal driver thicker that are already too thick, leaving thin weak parts thin (these probably can't be changed much because of how it has to fit), and then trying to puff up his chest about how he knows what ANSYS is. It's amateur hour...
You didn't really provide much reasoning for your arguments. I explained exactly why I made the decisions I did. You're just trying to turn it into a resume contest, but you shouldn't assume so much. (That's actually a Logical Fallacy called an Appeal to Authority.)
It's pretty easy to get...
Have to be careful with that thinking. There is always "better", but the real trick is knowing what is "good enough". The long taper on the flare is mostly for printability, it didn't need it for strength. So the cuts were to remove material that did not need to be there, and were just...
Right, the time goes down, but the resin (especially the highly impact resistant resins) is significantly more expensive. So time lowered, but you're printing at up to $5-10/hr of resin consumption. So the drivers still come out $40-80 (to sell, since the hourly rate includes some handling...
It's not a bad idea, but not really pragmatic either. Each of the seal drivers has different lengths, internal diameters, face recesses, etc. Then you would have to make it so it fit one specific "large military socket", that you hope everyone has (which will end up being a headache). It...
I haven't, no. The PETG does well, so there wasn't much need to look further. PETG has a density that's between HDPE and UHMW. The issues that required adjustment to the design were to minimize thin walls, where the print would separate between layers, and to increase printability so that it...
I've made most/all of them, and even sold some. However, I've had to go through several iterations of revisions from the metal design dimensions in order to get them to fit, survive use and print well. They take a long time (20-40h/ea), and a lot of filament, to print. I print them (90%)...
Were you able to reach, and clear, the terminals on that one? They will be facing the block. Is that a starter for engines that use a starter on the passenger side?
I wonder what Simp thinks are "junk" about them? That's a pretty bold statement, with absolutely nothing said to support it. I know my experience with them has been very good, and I now have a handful of old chargers around collecting dust (that I should just get rid of). Even on Amazon, the...
Me too, which is why I was trying to point out (perhaps not clearly enough) that you can get a good NOCO charger for about the same as the Chinese ones, if you look around.
"Designed and engineered in the USA. Over 100 years of American ingenuity and vision." They're a US company, though I'm...
In addition to the big NOCO Gen4 I have mounted on my LMTV, I have a few of their smaller ones. They go on sale... I've asked questions to their chat support on their website and been given a big discount code (30%?), bought one on Black Friday for like $25, etc. They do the same type of...
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