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If you didn't want to permanently modify the rim, you could also design a plate that bolts on exactly the same way that the original valve assembly did. It would use the two tapped bolt holes, and seal to the air port hole the same way as the valve (o-ring?).

There is an index in the back, and a PDF search function. Just type "caging". Or when I can't find instructions easily, you can always go look in the -24P parts manual, where you can easily look up the pictures by the part of the truck it's on... I think that's what Ronmar did.

Come on, man. You've been given the answer, at least go look at your truck or look it up in the manual. Yes, there is a hole on the side of the cans, where the bolts stow. No, it's not the hole on the end of the can, where you actually cage the brakes.

It's right on the brake can assemblies. It's a hole... you put the cage bolt through, and put the nut on the other side.

You actually have to be careful with it, because it has like a 25:1 gear ratio. So you can easily put hundreds of foot pounds of torque on the lugs.

These trucks have ~27" of ground clearance to the bottom of lowest stuff (e.g. air tanks, gas tank), and then then some more before you get to other things (e.g. oil pan, transmission, etc.). Water that deep, if it's moving even at all, is very dangerous, you're not going to be driving through...

Personally, I like the geared manual lug wrenches. They just work... power, no power, rain, air, no air, whatever. You use it for like 30 seconds on each lug, to break it loose, then spin them freely with a lug wrench or ratchet. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G3NA6C0/

I just think it's not meant to be permanently sealed, airtight. There is a lot of thermal expansion that goes on in there, plus the possibility of fluids leaking, as you mentioned. Don't seal it unless you're fording deep water. You're probably overthinking all of this, anyway. Are you...

I replaced the purge valve, using the DQ6053 kit, and now it's fine. https://www.finditparts.com/products/365456/haldex-dq6053

Yep, still making them.

Better schools for the kids, less "New California" culture. ;)

We're moving to Orlando today, and that means driving the LMTV + LMTV trailer there! Wish me luck.

The purge valve does have a spring that holds it closed, but this wire couldn't be from it. The spring wire is thicker diameter, and zinc-plated. I can't see anywhere this could have come from, and it's pretty corroded, so it's been there a long time. I checked all the o-rings on the valve...

Just got done messing with it, Round 1. The air dryer leaks out the purge valve lightly, until the compressor sends pressure down the control line, then it dumps and stops leaking. Without the control line attached, the purge valve leaks lightly continuously. Never stops. I took apart the...

Thanks! I do stop and check regularly, I just wanted to know if there was something more to look for.

The part number is in the -24P TM. It's used in the hole on the dash where the winch cables pass through into the upper switch box. I was able to buy a package on eBay... probably a lifetime's worth.

Thanks, can you explain this in more detail? After driving, I would get out, use the IR gun on the sidewall of all the tires, and look for a temp difference on the trailer tires? What general temp should I be getting, and how different would be considered bad on the trailer tires?

Stick a tool/screwdriver straight up in the exhaust port, and tap?

Thanks, I think I understand what you're saying. I'll check it tomorrow morning.

The air is leaking out of the "purge exhaust cover". Where is there a "purge airline" to disconnect?