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I have a 3 set of diamond stones from Smiths, they've been pretty good. I also have a black 8000 grit? 🤔 stone, and a leather strop that I made with polishing compounds. I don't use the black stone or the strop on anything but one knife really. This Cold Steel sees too much daily use to stay...

rofl spotted my EDC knife. Been a good one, seen a lot of use over the past 12 years or so, I think thats how long its been since I bought it. I lost it for about a year once, and a month or so just recently... found it in the truck this last time. But it always turns back up. And yeah I need to...

ok, here is the update. I started the truck up this morning to pull it back into my garage and it didn't start on the first try. Second try it did start but cylinders were hitting hard and had a good amount of white smoke blowing out the tailpipes, especially on drivers side. I gave it some gas...

Now that sounds like a way that I could do this by myself :) The fuel hose cheat also sounds like a good idea. They probably need replaced anyway, as they were the one "rubber parts" that I didn't replace when I first got the truck. Thanks for the Tips [thumbzup]

Thanks for the info [thumbzup] That is interesting, as I was thinking that there might be some type of connection issue causing more resistance... or loss of resistance? As I'm guessing that is basically the way the sending unit operates to send the electrical signal to the fuel gauge. I'll...

Thanks for the link. Sliding the bed back sounds better than dropping the tank, especially since its full. But it might be harder to do since I have this "camper" shell on my truck. Its pretty heavy and I don't have anyone to help me. Took me and 3 other guys when I put it on the bed back 10 or...

Hey All, I know this thread is a few months old, wasn't sure if would better to post here or start a new thread? I can move this to a new thread if that'd be better, just let me know. I have an 1986 M1008 6.2 and my fuel gauge has been "off" for a while now. It used to read correctly from "E...

Nice! From what I'm reading, those are Brand New Delco brand alternators? And they don't even have a core charge, but they do charge $41 for shipping. Still cheaper than FPC by the time you add in the core charge. If I do end up needing an alternator, I may order this place. Thanks for the Link...

Thanks for the belt numbers. It could be a belt, its been a while since I replaced them and they are adjusted out toward the end of the range. I'll definitely check this out first. This morning I tested the alternators, drives side tested fine. Passengers side #2 light was on, and when I tested...

🤣 I like it! will try today

Found on another thread the Wilson Alternator part number is # 90-01-4277 FPC has them for $162 +$47 core charge. https://www.filterspro.com/WILSON-90-01-4277_p_1813699.html I emailed them about how to get my core charge back on my starter. There wasn't any shipping label or any core return...

I didn't know anyone made the isolated ground reman's. If I end up having to buy an alternator, I'd rather have one of theirs than the cheap aftermarket one's and then have to modify it. I think that is what these are.

Yes, this is still the stock 24v system. I found a thread on here about testing it, but the video will be a big help. Thanks [thumbzup] Thats Great! I'll never forget it again with that trick [thumbzup] [thumbzup]

I couldn't find a new one, but I bought a Wilson which is their remanufactured Delco brand 28MT. Looks like a very good built unit, and it wasn't quite as heavy as the Direct Drive. Still pretty heavy though. Hope it will last as long as I need it.

Well, got the truck started today. Fired right up, no noise from the starter. Tried a few times today, and could hear the starter kickout as soon as I let off the key. So I guess there is no need for any shims. The "low coolant" light is also no longer flickering, and the coolant temperature...

just thought I would post something I found today that was interesting to me at least. I might have found the issue with my temperature light. I pulled out the temperature sensor / sending unit and found that it was not the same as the TS81 that I replaced it with. I didn't think to get a photo...

Well, I got the starter back on and torqued down. hopefully it will work without any shims. If not I'm not sure how you are supposed to keep the pinion gear out and into the ring gear in order to measure the gap as it shows in the TM, to know what size shim it would need. In any case, got some...

just looked this starter and it does not have the "no shim" txt :(

I know the direct drive said this. I forgot to look at this one, it's on the truck but not tightened down yet. I'll try to look if I can see any text on it. I questioned this as I read in TM it talks about a shim may be required and how to measure gap between pinion and ring gear (between .2...

well, answered myself on the question about adding a washer to the starter. TM shows one is supposed to be there. TM also shows 33 ft lbs for torque. Still trying to figure out how to measure pinion ring gear spacing to see if shims are needed.