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I'm kinda dense, FLU farm, I am not sure what you mean, or if you are joking. My tendency is to over torque. When I tighten until it turns free it means I've either snapped the head, or stripped the threads. In either case backing off a half turn doesn't do me much good. But if you are not...

Would anyone like to express an opinion on what I should torque the bolts that hold the access cover to the transmission with a cork composite gasket. I have searched the TMs but not found anything regarding the installation of the access cover. The torque values would probably be too high...

Welcome to the group MadCat2 there is lots of info on SEEs on this thread.

I think that Idea is a non starter, because the spare pulley is of a much smaller diameter. You might be able to break down the stack of pulley's and make them the same size, but don't count on just slapping another belt on it won't work.

After having read what I wrote again I came off way more harsh than I intended. I especially did not want to even appear to be attacking Guyfang who I am very greatful to for his contribution. I truly appreciate th SS site. My one complaint is the difficulty to navigate it.

Don't take this the wrong way, I am not intending to unload on you. I appreciate that you have provided the latest manuals even though you don't own a SEE. It's just my frustration spilling out. < RANT MODE ON > Part of the issue might be that it is the FLU 419 SEE, not CEE. But that aside...

It's not easy to find. Like I said the only way I have been able to find it is to find Peakbaggers post and follow the link.

I got my nice new aftermarket master cylinder from EI. My only concern is it says on the side to use dot 4 not dot 5 as the FLU is supposed to have. I assume I should ignore the warning to use dot 4 and stick with dot 5 but I thought I would ask.

Steelsoldiers has a spot where you can upload TMs, and that would be a better place for people to download them from, than you having to send multiple emails to everyone that wants a copy. I think the list you have is similar to what Guyfang posted in 2017, but that should be verified...

So far all I have used for wrenches are 27 mm for the BSPP lock / seal nuts and 19 mm on the flange nuts. Also a adjustable wrench on the elbow fittings. The HF tube wrench set has a 19 mm / 22 mm combination, which only cost $14 for the 5 wrench set. a 3/4 wrench works well on 19 mm...

The fittings are one advantage of using Nickel-Copper, since I think I can reuse most if not all from 10 mm steel to 10 mm cunifer, and not have to match up disparate threads. At the worst case I would just need 10 mm compression sleeves. I don't think the pressure requirements are that big of...

Well when you are ignorant like me, better to follow someone else's lead, but I was wondering if I could use braided Stainless Steel hose of appropriate diameter and just do a good job attaching it to the frame. It would save $$. Flu farm what would you consider appropriate hose?

I had thought of checking with a magnet, but was unsure of the type of stainless that is used in the tubes. Some stainless is magnetic even if less so than steel. When I checked as you suggested there was a strong attraction so It is steel. In one of your earlier posts you had said you were...

Thanks Peakbagger, I had heard of the student manual but not seen it before. It is a good reference. Lack of progress report. I had a frustrating weekend. I thought I had it figured out when I started breaking connections at the anti-freeze / regulator and water started coming out. With all...

I am not sure how much of the trailer brake lines are intact. When I saw these lines I traced it back into the cab, and the one that is partially present goes to the lever on the steering column that allows the driver to apply brakes to the trailer to stop fish tailing. A long time back I...

I think the weather will hold for me to get some work done this weekend. So I am doing a bit of prep work. I have most of the metric combination box and open end metric sizes between 30 mm and 7 mm, of course I could run into one that falls in between two sizes that I have, but no way of...

Thanks, I will give it a shot . But at least a good chunk of the trailer lines were removed before I got it. The other thing is I think it is blocked now, not leaking. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

I need some advice on how to proceed. I have two issues that may be related, but probably are not. When I first got my SEE, the air pressure built up to 90 pounds or so and seemed to bleed off slowly. A few weeks ago I could hear an air leak, and the pressure never built up. Over the weekend...

Yeah, I foresee a tilted cab in your future. It is an old break, so maybe you can get by like you had for a while. The picture that I sent you was for the belt adjustment to the power steering. it is the outer most belt, so you will still need to remove it to get a replacement on. I wonder if...

Tilting the cab is not too hard, but if the only reason is to change the V-Belts out, probably it is overkill. I reread FluFarm's post on that, and the only time he needed the needle nose vicegrips was at the very end while tightening the lock nut. I that belt is the inside belt, so you will...