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Sorry for taking so long. My scanner is not wanting to work or I would just post up the pages you need.
Go to this link, open the TM and go to pages 155-157. This will tell you how to test the distributor. Page 222 shows how things are supposed to be hooked up in the distributor. Keep in mind...
When I get home this evening, I will look up in my TM how to test. There is a way but I don't remember the process without the manual. The test works.
I knew I had a condenser fail, replaced it with another one that was supposed to be good and still the same issue. That is when I tested by the...
Could you post a picture of the inside of the distributor? I am curious to see if it is the same as the M135. If so, I will compare it to what I have and we will see. If the same, my TM tells how to test everything. I had to go through that too. It was a condenser. (This was before the cap cracked.)
Post up what weatherstrip you have found that is or could be a replacement for what was on the G749s. Seems like we may have found some and it is listed in another thread. I thought I would try to get it in a central location for ease of locating later on.
Door window run channel...
Have you looked for small cracks or burn marks in your distributor cap? My M135 acted like that and turns out it was the distributor cap. The crack was so small I could barely see it, but it was enough to cause me a lot of problem.
If you have the 1-3/8 bore cylinders, those will work great. They will be loose on the 1-1/4 bore. You can put a zip tie around the boot to tighten it up, but I am not sure how that would hold up or for how long.
Please post up any part numbers you find. I'll add them to the part list if we don't have it listed already.
Best place to buy seals...I found most of mine on RockAuto for reasonable price. Most of my outer wheel seals were able to be reused, but I did find NOS ones on eBay to have on hand. I...
Hammer down on the bolt that holds the cap on to free things up if there is corrosion. Not too hard though.
Then try loosening the bolt.
I agree with what plowboy says. I too have never seen one of these trucks that the brakes were ready to go with a simple fill and bleed.
That is really neat! Could you post up several pictures of the stand in addition to the video and the drawings? I'd like to study the pictures along with the drawings.
I would like a drawing with dimensions of the stand please.
Yep. I had one blow out when my condenser failed. Luckily I was able to have the muffler welded back up.
I have not been able to find a correct intake hose at all either. I ended up using the Spectre flex hose. It has worked well with some slight modification.
Too bad the filter did not do as advertised.
Do you have a source for the headlight rubber isolator mounts? I can check my parts trucks...
Is that a Spectre filter on the top of your carburetor? Does the truck run different with it as opposed to the original oil bath? I had thought about doing the same thing for driving around and then hooking up the old original filter for display purposes.
Check out the pictures in post #628.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?52255-G749-preservation/page63
Does that look like what you need for your transmission?
That is very true. It would sure ease my mind a lot to know if we found the right kit.
Where is stephenfeldmeier?? He was trying to get one rebuilt.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?138285-m211-transmission-rebuild-woes!
That is great news!! Do you mind telling what the master rebuild kit cost you?
If we can narrow down what kit and bands we need, I'll add them to our parts list.
Thanks Alan!
Looks like there are several of us wanting to learn how to rebuild these transmissions now. Too bad we all didn't live closer so we could gather on a weekend and start learning.
Plowboy..does your transmission guy happen to know where we can find rebuild parts that are readily available?