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Thanks. I'll convert back to the original handle from Boyce or Big Mikes. I won't buy anything from TMG after reading all the crap that they pulled on some customers.

. 5 psi is fine as many will run without any ltank pump, but make sure the GPH is enough. on mine the bypass line is separate to the tank. so I just cut into the fuel feed line on top of the tank and put the pump in line with rubber fuel lines and then spliced in the power supply wire.

ditto on the 5 psi. at 15psi you'll have a football shaped tank. I use 3 psi on my barrel transfer system or the ends will balloon out.

I got a 24vdc one from Summit Racing out of Nevada. it was under 50$ a few years ago. make sure the discharge pressure and gph matches your engine requirements.

I was wandering if you are actually losing fluid somewhere, as in having to top it off a few times.

have you lost fluid level in the system, but not on the ground or dribbling down the brake plates?

What he needs to check is if the fluid does it on a "push" down of the brakes, or a release. Both without any air pressure in the system. to eliminate (mostly) the master cylinder as the problem.

I broke the aftermarket outside door handle off when the door was frozen a few days ago. I don't have a clue where to buy another locking handle or if I can put a original handle back in its place, as the truck came with them when I bought it. I wonder who the Ja##a@@ is that invented pot metal...

If you drained the air pressure to zero, and pumped the brakes, would it still pump out into the reservior? Like a bad master cylinder would do? Im curious because I have a dual circuit and dont have a remote reservoir.

well ,steel cut too short can be added to. Wood........your screwed. Notice I never post any wood work......

yea, but I had a shop in Bonners Ferry brake the blade curve for me so it would look better and dump wet snow off better. I also built the one on my dump truck and put a clutch driven pump and joy stick hydraulics in for it.

M1951 pants are no longer available in sizer larger than medium now. The ones I got a few years ago seem to rip out in the crotch easy too, even though they were NOS.

figure out why it lost prime or it will come back and bite you on the ....

30$ and 30 minutes to install a 24vdc inline electric pump on top of the fuel tank cutting in right where the old discharge line is and splicing the wires to the old power supply for the in tank pump. you dont even have to remove the old pump on mess with it. Ive done it to mine a few years...

its the wheel removal I dont want to do every season. my tires are at about 85-90%, so Im not going to go to singles with A3 rims either. My truck isnt a toy, or "look at me" vehicle, I work the crap out of it at least 30-50 days of the year, so singles isnt a requirement even though they look...

If I would remove a wheel off the inside of each rear axel and put one more pair of chains on, the truck would do a lot better in the deep wet snow, but thats a lot of work and Im too lazy and busy to do it.

chec checking the fuel pump discharge side for fuel delivery should be your first move, but if you prefer to do all the other stuff first....enjoy.

I dont remember played down sideways in the snow when I took that pic today.

Agree. we get a little snow here too. I run 4 single chains. the front steers and one rear axel outside. With the duals setup. I never get stuck, and I use it mainly in the winter.

I always use chains in snow over 6 inches deep even with my Michelin tires. depending on the wetness of the snow, when the tires pack down on it, they may spin.