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that's a funny pic, since the shaft/joint is sitting on top of the plate that comes with the Harbor Freight press. hahahaha

Yea , the swap of the injectors and the same cylinder making a knocking noise, and not a tappet noise, requires some deeper investigation. If the oiler failed by being plugged up, and the piston pin didnt get oiled, then the oil pressure "may" stay the same?

I dont know. Im old and haven't watched tv for at least a decade. I see some 3% around here sometimes.

thats a odd insignia on the door. I thought 3% ers had 3 lines, not 4?

use a stethoscope on it to determine the area of the knock. I would drop the pan and check the rod bearing and piston pin, plus piston skirt slap. also check the oiler too.

parking brake malfunctioning?

maybe its to add a slight air pressure to the clutch housing for running in deep water?

when I get my set up going (back ordered on the centrifuge) I plan on using it mainly for my tractors in the summer. I suppose I can give the Kat Killer (deuce) a taste of "black diesel" too.

https://usfiltermaxx.com/en/wmo-centrifuge-waste-motor-oil-centrifuge/130-waste-motor-oil-centrifuge-2400-g-industrial-grade-120-240-volts.html. study this website and links. BTW they are back ordered about a month. Im waiting for mine.

as far as the in tank pump. I drove mine for roughly 6 months without working. My IP pump sucked it right through the dead pump. I got a aftermarket exterior inline pump on the tank pulling fuel right through the old dead in tank pump.

is this a stupid question, or nobody knows? If It cannot be steered without pump running, as in the ram adding resistance, then I cant do this mod where I live.

If you turn the steering wheel with the engine off, does it feel the same as before adding the hydraulics? Or do you feel extra resistance from the unpowered steering ram?

I want one......

so would you have one forward speed and five reverse speeds?

wh yea, the battery may catch on fire.

this. and good wool clothing.

they have done me good on parts. remember, its still a "used" truck, with a old engine.

almost all copper head gaskets Ive seem are a "sandwich" type. 2 sides of thin copper with a "paper"type core.

some systems used a accumilator for emergency braking.

that was done properly. its much harder to fix a bad repair, than to do it right the first time. cut and grind the bad part out, clamp and tack the new steel in, then weld or braze it.