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Keith- That is all sorts of AWESOME!!!

2 - 6" x 3" x .180" (3/16") x 20' 7 - 2' x 3" x .120" x 20' 1 - 4" x 2" x .120" x 20' 1 - 1" OD x .120" wall round, 20' Total was $1200, loaded on my truck, I don't remember the break down. This is enough to build what would effectively be a flatbed for the truck. Once that's done, I'll go...

Chucky- There will be three perches per side, evenly(-ish) spaced along the rails so I chose 3 different rates to keep the applied force even along the length of the rail. There is a wide variety of sizes and rates, just google "die springs" and peruse. I would wager you can find whatever you...

Yep, it's in the plans but will be separate from the perches.

Christmas came early, and wrapped in little orange ribbons: It's the initial supplies to complete the subframe and build the floor: Upper rails in place, but need to get trimmed: Also need to get notched out to allow clearance around the transmission mounts: I had some pieces laser...

I have a 22' box planned for a 1088 chassis. Just starting to put the metal together but I think it'll work. Going to build the over-chassis portion of it first and then add on the tail section once the forward structure is fabbed. Plan is to look bit like this (spare has been removed, intake...

I thought we were around 47" OD for the FMTV tires?

Something I had lost track of, and definitely will (re)think about.

As drawn, the box is 22' 3" along the roofline, and I believe it will be 11' 10" to the roof from the ground. I am trying to incorporate as much storage as I possibly can. The base rail for the subframe which I just attached is 16' 4" long. The dropped tail will obscure the mount for the...

Hey Nate, If you catch the start of the thread, you'll see this screen grab: It's the current concept for size/shape but will likely forgo the dropped stairwell. I'd like to do it but not sure I'll pull it off. Specifically for the cabin, I will be doing the rail on rail subframe and a...

And done! Very stoked! Finally feeling like I'm actually getting closer to having a box on board.

If you're ever passing through again, drop a line. Meanwhile, progress has been made: Still working on the right beam but should be firmly attached soon (dinner break). With the back located, I can get on with drawing up the front plates and getting them cut out and installed. Then it's...

I don't see mentioned anywhere that you caged the brakes. Did you? If not, you're never getting them off. Edit- just re-read: does the air in(?) the gladhand release the drums?

Getting back to making progress... Drew up a plate to use the shock mount holes to secure a subframe mount. Had one laser cut to validate layout. Everything lined up but needed a little more material up top. Rev 2 went in for manufacture, but here is rev 1 in place: And with the rail...

Actually, while spankybear typed MPH, I am starting to think Third read MPG. That makes sense in context. I haven't driven enough to get real MPG data but I am more than willing to bet I am still well under double digits with my truck even as just a chassis. I would be ecstatic if I got 10...

Disregarding the mileage prognostications, getting 15 MPH more is exactly what happens when you re-gear. You may or may not see mileage improvement, but you will rev lower at a given speed, or (as stated by spankybear), go faster for a given RPM. That part is just math. My speedo reads ~48...

My 1088 had them installed when I purchased it, so no "before" experience. It does feel "good" right now with the 3.07's in it. I have been up to 73 mph per phone GPS but only briefly, and still had some throttle travel left to give. I have no intention to run there but wanted to see how it...

I think it's right there in the picture.

Need intake parts? I pulled my OEM and went DIY. They are just hanging around taking up space.

Try Martin: http://fmtvsales.com/