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Did you access everything by taking off the top? I have one I started working on today which wont light as well. It was drained previously so I know the pump is working, It builds up to about 30psi when I purge then when it tries to light goes to about 125psi. Arc in the glass but no lighting...

Picture attached.

Its few and far between you cross paths with someone new you would invite over for the holidays! Well if you get a chance to do business with David I suggest you do the deal. He was a pleasure to do business with. A fine human being in a time when that seems to be less and less. Bought an S280...

I’m buying an inoperative M1083 that’s sitting at a mine in Cambridge Wi that I need hauled to Carpentersville IL. Not to terribly far but more distance than a novice like me wants to flat to with my working LMTV. They have equipment to get it up on the trailer on the pickup side. I do not...

Yes. 3200 is right but they pull it so the block can be welded, change the RMS and a few other odds and ends. But I’m already into the truck for some $ so what’s some more $ now to make sure it’s good and doesn’t spew oil.

Pulled the starter. Seems someone was messing with it at some point because it was pretty loose and one of the bolts was broken. Hiding behind the starter is a nice block crack..... So this seems to be the slow leak source. Mechanic is pretty sure its a weldable crack. This is why it looked like...

They arrived safely! Now just to find the time to install them.

I’ll be sure to take my time. Between 4x4’s jacks and dolly’s I should be able to control its descent onto the last dolly coming off the truck. Since this should only be one trip onto the ground and then one trip up onto the trailer I will be able to take it slow. But yes if it was an up and...

I have a huge pile of 4x4’s and I think you’re right. That would tip it up just enough to be able to let it down slowly onto the Dolly’s. I appreciate your suggestions!

I hope to have skills that good someday. But for now I’m only that good at plumbing!

I’m picking up an S280 tomorrow. The seller is helping me out big time and having a friend set it on my bed with a forklift. So that part is a bonus. But my problem is needing to remove it to work on it inside during winter. I have a dock outside my storage building. My thought is to drag it off...

It worked! Thank you

I will put the duck to rest. Add the Dye Pull starter and I’m sure then pull the engine and replace the main seal. I’m buying eco hubs in the morning. So I’ll probably be talking to you about some upgrades soon.

After buying this m1078 i noticed it had a slow leak from rear driver oil pan corner it looked like. Had two large truck places check it out and both said rear main seal. But that didn’t seem like it to me. After digging in the TM I found the fording drain for the bell housing. I took the cap...

Can you please PM me so I can get a set with gaskets for my 4x4. I dont have enough posts yet for me to be able to message you.

I did get ahead of myself thinking it was the controller. Instead of checking for boost leaks. Found a missing clamp on one of the tubes so that was the boost problem! Got the actuator free and tightened the boot back on and the smoke was 80% gone and the power was back… drove for an hour trying...

I have a new to me 1078 with a 3126 Cat. Main seal is leaking and needs to be replaced. I have found a shop who is willing to do the work but they are looking for any pointers to getting them separated. Can the work be done with the bed in place or will it need to be pulled back to gain better...

Has anyone got the Icubed crate and installed all the updates? I know some of them are on Rass's videos. But wire harness's and such I cant find anything on.

If I put in a manual boost controller and leave the other one plugged in would there be a chance it goes in limp? I think the controll is dead anyway.

Got the actuator to move after soaking but it takes about 50lbs of pull force. I ordered the Chinese turbo I found through part numbers on here so I can take the actuator off. Is there a unit I can buy to get codes from the transmission computer to see if it is sending errors too?