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you create a way for water to get in. Beside it is not a solid plug of rubber. There is an inner wedges or something to that effect which force the plug to expand as you turn the T handle.
if someone is dead set on making the tube be open... there is not much you can do. All these lockable cap kinda things or a locking box they are re-located to sit in are just deterrents.
@serpico760
https://www.atlanticsupply.com/product/locking-plug-1-25-1-14-orange-locking-well-plugs-for-monitor-wells-t25-well-plug-torquer-style/
they make several sizes. Just pulled this link to show the product. use's small padlock. Though this is made for test point on wells. Not sure...
@serpico760 Rubber plug. How hard would it be to cut the cross off the top and weld or epoxy an upside down 1/4 socket to it?
Make it a 10mm. For once it won't be lost. Unusable..... but not lost.
@ramdough spreadsheet has some locking fuel cap stuff in it.
have not seen these.... wonder if they are just "cooler" looking than the blue ones but essenturally the same?
Agree blue ones are horrible though not sure if they cant be personally improved upon (drop little electronics solder in there before final snap together, dab of electric grease...
thanks..... looks like 330hp obtainable all the way to 380.... in cummins configurations though I think the 380 bumps it to new pump and common rail upgrade.
maybe remove vent cap, put a hose on it and run it over to a removable tiny bottle (or one with drain) to act as a catch can. Then hose up to high spot; off the top of the bottle, to be "the vent"? Bottle could even be a fat clear hose maybe? Clear will make it easy to check on when to...
couple solutions discussed in this thread.... shoo goo, making them and purchasing new ones...... what are you showing us here? appears to be new ones from mtpdrivetrain..... or did you make this as Bdog did?
what is name/model of charger? I got a low cost one long while back that ruined a battery in storage. Advertising for the product made you think it was a tender/maintainter...... It wasn't..... it was a trickle charger... so overtime its constant charging just cooked the battery.
diaphragms same....... othewise I am an idiot... ignore me.
did see though two part numbers (for different reason) .... one says it is for FMTV and MRAP.... and other one only for FMTV (except wrecker) ...
UPDATE- FORGET WHAT SAID BELOW. I'm an idiot. ...
dont think that new piece is correct. The two chambers on the rear axle are different part numbers.... and one you need includes the neck and internal parts. Looks like what you got is the other chamber. Maybe wrong number got put on box...
could do this design with strap metal with numerous hinges and locks to bottom plate below tanks.. aka a giant pad lock hasp similar to this
https://www.amazon.com/NU-SET-Laminated-Security-Improvement-Hardware/dp/B013RV77OA?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Some early A1's if I recall right had issues with the light switch that was the upgrade from the A0 version. It had no ground wire. It was planned it would ground proper thru the bolts...and it didn't work out that way in reality. CARC is beasty lol.....
Anyway after a few fires and other...
will be interesting to see if bead dust clogs those filters. Beads have come along way... they likely do not break up as much like they use too so it may be a non issue. Time will tell
Seem to recall several have put something in backward on reassembly.. or something like that... so keep close eye on little stuff... which way is up and which way is down.. as well as the order of things in some of the small areas.
are you speaking of the CTIS ECU? What would concern me if so..... is they say to unplug it before jump starting.. (this came up in a PS Mag. bulletin) Is that because it does not like sudden surges? if so.... then I would only use your kill switch for off/ons when the truck is OFF for same...
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