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looking at where the welds are.. looks like it would have worked better if the welds were located better so they fall in that spot between the spiders gears. Then could retain spider gears to help hold the inner gear; thus bearing nut, firmly at home as designed. I'll test fit the spiders in...

yeah that was the (attempted) point..... as in the box needs to be strong enough to not deflect its shape at this point..... all shape change must be at the spring.

what do you want me to take picture of next? I can disassemble further down to the spindle nut. Back side gear is still in place. Looked normal to my (poor) memory so didnt dig further. Nut and shims would be below that right? Dont know if when he removed this from axle and housing if he...

not sure if I need to go deeper..... included is modified to 1:1 hub seller of my truck used for about 3k miles. Whole assembly is NOT attached to my truck. Seller had already put new OEM hubs back in once (he thought) a person he hired to fix rear axle ; while he was away, had done a good...

as to Captive springs and rigidity..... IMHO both need to be rigid... but chassis usually is already quite rigid. Long ago chassis had more flex intentionally... not the case for long while now in truck designs though adding more wisely (so not to crack chassis) may be needed sometimes...

Am just down the road from ya.... but am a better searcher of information than am a mechanic. Honestly wish opposit. Anyway.... this might help you get answers on the rear system Real Time Labs As to the front system.. any big rig shop worth its salt should be able to advise you. Like...

still got to fix the leak though..... or your compressor will stay on too much and give you new problems. Now could well be the Ctis pushing air in thru the hoses sorta kicked some gunk out ..... or?? and that stopped your leak... may be. When the truck sits does that right front still...

New idea for ya. This product not heavy enough for our tires.... but might spark ideas for your own design.

me too, three and four. Don't have any yet. 3 winches in pieces but no snatch blocks yet lol

NO.... very different charging parameters. Also since they accept a charge so easy... you can start your typical alternator on fire.. the regulator does not know to dial it down ..... this helps.

oversize slightly and retap accordingly? paint head of nut and area on pan well to mark it is a different size than others?? Maybe doing metric will let you oversize less if how much oversize space available is limited?

is this the same sensor that is used to excite the alternator?

IF CAB IS UP..... find some sound way to ensure it stays up ...... as you work on things....... and seek to have way to lower it in a controlled manner if a path way opens in hydraulics to let the cylinder retract.

That Sticky is where he got the part numbers. quick search of part number shows kit includes two filters this answers your own question on why it was asked if you had down loaded/reviewed the manual yet... Get tya though..... it is a PITA to get thru the PDF so to our own demise we avoid the...

did you download the manuals yet? ( first page / top of page / First Forum .. of this website https://www.steelsoldiers.com/#technical-manuals.95

hmmm... guess one could put a giant rear slide out with something like that.

Yup... that tis be what i was thinking off.

is the stress spoken of different stress than when in mode with all axles working as typical? Ill look to dig them out and take pics. Several have asked.

@Xengineguy .... your front and rear ECO are the same design correct? for poe folk: aka- you have more time than money.... IMHO !!!! at your own risk - wonder if one could only use a pair of ECO hubs? (if he is wiling to only sell a pair) - pull your front drive shaft.... - put the ECO hubs...

Have moved my comment to a new thread so not to hijack Xengine's thread. Interesting topic.