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Military non suppl glass is plastic on the inside and about 3/8 th inch thick. H1 glass is glass on both sides, and 1/4 inch.

17 is high

Antenna for the Tow Hmmwv that is mounted on the right sponson would be: AS-3916/VRC

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Thats the proper ones.

If you have a Key switch...they go bad all the time....put a stock start switch in.

The shorter tube works with the Moog tie rod ends for trucks with 12k hubs which have different steering arm covers.

2 condensers are for the 4 man A/C. If using a redot system...you can run one condenser....most people used the right one. On a M1152 with 2 man A/C, they only use the right condenser....a blocking plate is on the left.

Power from light switch goes into turn switch at pin D and comes out to brake lights at pin c So...switch has to be connected.

Same thing

Thats my photo up there.

Those brake switches go bad internally..[ contacts ]... The 1123 has the dual switch...mech. connected together...one for trans, one for brake. I took some apart, and the brake side was bad internally...spring broke, and it flopped around.

Rear hatch seal is 12339595 for steel rear hatch 12480634 rear seal on flee bay is cheap, but only for thicker aluminum hatch.

Don't whack the nose cone...it will break.....Add 90 psi air to the hose going to clutch....and whack body only.

With mine...you lay roof on and add front brackets { outer ones } with all hardware to get location...mark 3 hole from each bracket....take off hardware, and drill holes on inner layer only and add rivnuts.

Disconnect regulator before welding

I have new ones available if yours don't come off.

There 13 bucks at Macmotors

Here is a 9k plate...brackets circled in blue are used without winch. Brackets circled in red are to extend out for a winch.

Those are one of the 2 types for mounting on a 9k winch plate.