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Look in the front pages of the TM for a "Standard Torque Specification Table". The table is intended for times when a value isn't given within the specific task text.

I added a few things to post 40 since you read it. Also, there may be a misprint in the TM you're using; Fuel injector hold-down yokes should be torqued to 150 INCH lbs., not foot lbs.

If you're trying to make sure that the kit has all the gaskets needed for the job, none are missing, and you want to set them aside and have them ready before you start the job, just take a printout of the respective pages from the TM for head gasket replacement, along with the gasket kit, out...

Really the only thing you can check on the outside of the trans is that nothing is pushing the 1/R shift shaft and residual linkage on the top/back of the trans away from the trans case (doubtful unless you installed some kind of backup alarm/lights using that aparatus). I believe you'll need to...

Well then... I'd install a new gov.

Maybe you got a bad gauge? Got a shop compressor you could borrow a gauge from?... I'd check the system pressure with another gauge at the emergency glad hand, the supply stub by the interior passenger dash/kick panel, or you might be able to take a plug out of the air governor and spin the...

I've read that the lube in deuce steering boxes is often replaced with corn head grease, IIRC, especially because it's thicker and won't drain out of a leaky box. I've never used it myself, so, not sure how to tell if it's too contaminated/needs replacing, or how you'd go about flushing it out...

I guess that's relative to how quick and easy it is for you, with the time and means you have, to re-pull the transmission if something needs to be replaced... If it were mine, the flywheel would get ground, it'd get an entire clutch pack incl. throwout and pilot, new rear main seal while I was...

Sure looks like sand. Being curious, I'd take a small portion and see what it does when you add a bit of water, then maybe try alcohol, then try a solvent like mineral spirits/naphtha, laq. thinner, brake cleaner, etc.. If it still feels gritty when rubbed between the fingers after all that...

Garrett, I don't believe you'd ever knowingly steer folks the wrong way. You and your advice have done a massive amount of good for this community. You were trying to offer us what you honestly believed was a better alternative. I don't fault you one bit brother. No worries.

I'd be surprised if they weren't all from the same manufacturer, whether you bought from Mike's, Erik's, Boyce, Eastern, Memphis, etc. If you drive your truck alot, and don't want to continuously re-do the slot seal, DO NOT use the little POS cork to fill the tab slots on the rear spindles. I...

M35A3 Tachometer stuff... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2320-386-24-1-1.pdf TACHOMETER REPLACEMENT Page 0095 00-1, MAGNETIC SPEED SENSOR REPLACEMENT Page 0097 00-1

DOH! just saw you have an A3. I know on the A2 the tach is cable-driven via adapter on the front of the engine, so either the drive adapter, cable, or tach would be broken or disconnected on an A2, don't know about an A3 though.

If that were the case, if the PDD filter itself was not at fault, then we should see the stock filter clogging up just as quickly (or faster), raising canister vacuum and EGT's like the PPD filter. If the modern "efficient" tubo is drawing in that much more air, then it would also draw in that...

I bought the PDD filter believing I was buying a modern product which just HAD to be better than a decades-old design... right? We've heard lotsa times that sometimes the old stuff is best. In hindsight, having no problems with the stock filter, being able to blow-out or wash the stock filter...

I had the same issues with the 9" Power Driven Diesel "Dust Bowl" filter that others have. I removed the spring-loaded dome in the bottom of the canister to accomodate the 9-incher, so that wasn't causing the problem. My filter gauge never gave any vacuum/restriction reading with stock filters...

I replaced mine with coil springs a few years back. So far they've worked great. If interested, I'll try to get the video up and running again. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/door-latch-spring-replacement.181061/#post-2153762

One very important thing to remember... as stated in the TM, when removing 2nd gear from the mainshaft; only press 2nd gear about 1/4", just enough to grab the 2-3 syncro sleeve with a bearing spreader, then press ONLY the sleeve off the shaft by itself. I've seen pics of the carnage when we get...

What you asked is correct on removing the mainshaft, you just need to keep an eye out for the non-caged bearings falling out the back of the input shaft as you remove the mainshaft. Regarding 2nd gear, Gringeltaube has recommended grinding oil channels into the shoulder adjacent to the 2nd gear...

With the top cover off, you're so close to "looking down further" already... if you haven't tried sliding 1/R and the syncros back and forth now is the time to do it. If you need to "look down further", IIRC, it's just a matter of taking the jackshaft loose, and removing the flange nut and...