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I haven't wired it to a switch yet. I figured I would wire it into a factory CUCV service / drive light switch since they have two power positions and a off position. Up for high & down for low. Will probably mount the switch with a label in the blank plate to the right of the steering wheel.
Did you take a look at those LED BO headlights that we all bought? They won't work on the older stuff. The pattern is different for the screw holes. They will work on the newer 9 series 5 tons. Well one worked on mine. They will also work on a bicycle with a 9 volt battery.
At first I mocked it up with the light on the bottom, but after moving some stuff around I liked this look better. The slave port was easy I just turned it over and re bolted it in place. I did have to make a small bracket to secure the bottom to the rad support, but that only took a few...
Im wanting to buy a siren from a guy there but he won't ship, I would love to get it put on a pallet and shipped to me. If anyone can help that would be great.
Thanks
Drew
I also have a cab & chassis rear end with a 4.10 set-up. I was going to swap it in to the M1031. The problem was the inside tire would hit the box. I guess I could cut the box.
Any thoughts?
Picked up this trailer today. It has a huge hobart welder running a generator. The welder has a flathead Willys Jeep engine & it runs. Not sure what vehicle the box came off. M37 or M715 maybe. Fuel door is on the drivers side. Looks like the box is 1968 dated.
The overall dimensions were only about a inch different. I had to move the middle vertical brace a few inches, and move the forward vertical brace 1 inch. I also had to widen the bows and the front panel 1 inch.
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