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GEP stands for General Engine Products. They are the ones that took over manufacturing the 6.5 engine when GM discontinued it. Same design, but improved metallurgy to deal with the heat soak issue potentially causing cracking in the rear cylinders. GM stopped production around 2000, so anything...

I wonder what else they have done to the cooling stack then, because just a few years ago they were burning up motors in a matter of weeks due to cooling issues when operating in the sandbox. I know many units added some electric fans to supplement the regular one and that seemed to help a lot...

it's rated for 70 amps continuous and 85 amps intermittent 12V, so 50 amp fuse on the 24V should be more than enough. As for wiring, it's always better to go oversized than undersized, but the charts I'm seeing are saying 10 gauge should be good with a 50 or 60 amp fuse if you're only running a...

the top is thick enough that it really does keep the heat from radiating through, so if I was somewhere with a lot of sun I'd be leaving the top on the truck and just storing the doors somewhere instead. When it comes new, it's a really large box. The doors come as complete units, so the box...

First step would be figuring out exactly why it's locked up and going from there. A little water/rust in the cylinder keeping it from turning over can be cleaned up and you could have a running truck with not much additional money. If you're handy with tools, well, you're probably going to have...

Should be easy enough to verify. When hooked up to power on the main lugs, one terminal will be hot, the other not. The not hot one should be the one that gets hooked to a switched power source in the truck.

Yes, there is a built in relay From the instruction manual (actually, this is the entire instruction manual) Number 4 on the list below

The battery is there to act as a buffer/power reservoir, so having 50+ amps of load for short periods of time shouldn't be an issue as long as everything is functioning normally.

How much does your truck weigh? My truck is about 7500 lbs and I run around 30psi on BFG Baja Load Range D You might be better at 20 or 25psi depending on what your truck weighs. Here is a method for figuring out what works best for you...

The thread I linked a few posts back was when I updated mine to the new style

As i mentioned before, if you're going for more than about 30 amps fused (so less than that actual draw) I would say install the Orion 70 amp converter and follow the instructions for wiring it, as it has the built in relay that you can power off of any 24V circuit that's hot with the ignition...

If you are okay with the ball being a little higher, you could switch over to a pintle/ball combination hitch bolted on, and not have the 2" receiver down there, which would allow the rear winch to work.

My alternator bracket bolts broke because it was the pre 196900 style rear support that went to an exhaust stud, and the flange it also held down wasn't flat, so it pulled the stud sideways and caused it to break. Without that rear support there is a lot more stress on the bracket bolts. The...

50 amps max. The TCM is going to use some of that 12V feed. The reason I say 30 max is because you really don't want to max out the amount of power draw on the circuit if you can avoid it, so 30 amps plus whatever the TCM is drawing keeps you below 40 amps.

You would need to run it through a constant duty solenoid/relay rated for the load, that is connected to a switched power source. The Orion 70 amp 24-12 converter has a built in relay to do exactly this (and if you're pulling more than about 30 amps of 12V you should really use a converter anyway)

also make sure your throttle linkage is properly routed and seated, as you may have inadvertently leaned on something during all the work and pulled a cable out of position or jammed the throttle open or something.

I could be nice and just give you the belt part numbers for in a store, but I don't actually know which store you want to use, and different numbers cross to different things in different websites, so I'm going to go through the process of how to find the part number you need yourself. As for...

They are often referred to as "A0" because too many people like to say "M998" whether it's an M998, M998A1 or M998A2. Calling it an A0 makes it clear that it is NOT an A1 or A2 model. If you look at AM General's parts website they refer to the basic models as A0. They also refer to the M1123...

That serial number would put it as a manufacture date of around 1988, so it would be an A0 truck, not an A1. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/hmmwv-serial-year-of-manufacture-list.165800/ unless they did some type of retrofit, it's extremely unlikely to be anything other than the 218

H13 would be an M998A0 truck, which I believe are from before 92. If yours is a 94 then at minimum it should be an A1 or possibly an A2 variant. If you have a 3 speed M998 then it's probably the NP218 If it's a 4 speed then it's the 242 If your truck really is an M998 not an A1 then likely 94...