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I changed mine not long after purchase. It is awkward to reach in and access things, but pretty straight forward. I was NOT able to get the bleeder screw to open as there is no good access to it. So, I pulled the rubber line clamp loose coming out of the filter housing and let it bleed there...
AH...this makes sense. Per that posted manual, this explains why the fan kicks on and off. I usually notice this when I'm cruising at 55 or so. This summer I've been using the truck to take my boat to the lake. I'm on the throttle pretty steady to keep it pulling, which may have it in kick...
This is a great thread. When I got my truck, the caddy valve was bad so the fan ran all the time. It stayed a cool 180 but DANG...it has ZERO power. Thanks to SS I found out how to test it - narrowed it down...and I replaced that, and saw that when the gauge showed around 220 to 230, the fan...
So...local autoparts store "said" they ordered the felpro gasket...but at 3 pm I called and they said it wasn't ordered. I like the paper so it is on...I can torque it...and add oil right away. Not messy like the RTV method. So, I did the RTV thing - but the grey optimum stuff had me put the...
So, I just did seals on both diffs and brakes. Was adding oil to rear diff. Wasn’t paying attention and screwed the fill plug all the way in and it fell in the rear diff. Can’t take the cover off due to caliper brackets. Can’t take caliper brackets off without dropping axles and side yoke hubs...
I admit, I don't understand how to get the torque application for the side yoke nuts from the online repair manual - can somebody point me in the right direction?
Interesting, my brackets appear open enough the seal could have been changed with the diff in. It looks tricky though to get a clean straight shot at driving the side seals in.
I'm going to take advantage of this outage to clean it all up nice...maybe some fresh paint on a few parts...new...
Just dropped the front diff. It wasn’t terrible coming out. On the left side the little rubber washer thing was letting oil between the axle hub flange and diff. On the right side the main axle seal is bad. Going to give it all a good clean up and maybe some paint. I got new seals from a...
I'm going to do brake pads while it is apart. I suppose oil getting on all that isn't too good for them. I'm hearing the outer seal washer may be the problem. I get the odor of gear oil from the hot rotors after driving for a bit...and am seeing the drips on the bottom of the rotors and on...
Anybody from the been there done that files...my front and rear diffs are dripping gear oil out of the side seals.
What's the inside "shade tree" track on getting these fixed?
Drop the diffs? In the truck?
Can they be replaced with out any need to replace crush sleeves or reset the gears?
This is a great post - found in with the search feature. I need to get the positive camber out of the back of mine. Looks like the "crab" as discussed going down the road, and lord knows it is dangerous for handling. Summary of what I see here - I should try to remove the rear shims. Also, I...
Hauled a ton or more of gravel and paver stones to dress up my chicken/duck coop area.
The camber went neutral on the back tires and it rode super smooth.
It was nice to put it to work.
I'm liking the idea of those Dodge Ram steel rims (for now) but...aren't they 1" or so more narrow than a stock Humvee wheel?
I need to do something soon - we are in the good driving season...and I just don't trust these old tires at 55 mph on hot roads.
Those look PERFECT. I love them. Sending my kid to Aviation camp this summer and a trip to see his uncle in Alaska. That has wiped out my budget! But, I'd be all over those and I think that is a reasonable price for all.
So, our stock tire size is 37 x 12.5 x 16.5...right? Are there any aftermarket tires in this size or perhaps up to 40" that would go on the stock rim?
I'm having a hard time searching those too. 17" - no problem. But 16.5 is.
I date stamp checked my tires - they were all made in 2008 and...
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