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I'd say even for new tires 17oz is "normal" and acceptable, but 88oz, not so much. If you have the Hutchinson T1001 beadlocks and std. steel wheels I would try again after disassembling and rotate the beadlock 180⁰. Also check the wheel itself: especially the inner half could be deformed and the...

One way is to click on your username (upper right corner) and then hit "Your content". There you will find your three fuel tank threads all merged into one now: "Fuel tank info MEP003"

Yep, and also after seeing that "weld"... I'd recommend finding a good take-out part and replace the whole shaft. Of course, it never hurts learning how things (should) work.

That would be TM 9-2320-209-20 (Feb 1965), Section VI, starting on page 107: Troubleshooting the electrical system. (This is a 64MB manual and I don't think we have it uploaded yet, in our library. I will try later on...) Following 6 pages cover the ignition system.... (extracted from above...

Done so. Thanks for the suggestion.

Yes, it is also the easiest to give it a try and see if any changes/improvement, after that. As a first step I would not exceed 1° between T-case and first portion of rear prop shaft. Ideally, this one should be like an "extension" of the TC output shaft and then the angle after the carrier...

The bellhousing itself is an odd bolt pattern, specific for the 2-1/2ton Multifuel engines. But then the adapter ring reduces it to a std SAE#3, confirmed.

Agree with that - although I have only done it a couple times. Now, that is funny James - even Jesus might smile a bit after that response...😊

In his defense, I don't think that Rustystud knew about yours being a G-pump, when he wrote that...(?) :confused: In your first post you talk about LDT 465. Code G pumps normally don't come on the LDT's.

Years ago I was in the same situation: needed a HH replacement (#HD9065A) for a Code G pump (#PSB6A 85EH 5250D1) in an LDS427-2 motor. At that time the only ones available new were the HD90100A heads, either original AMBAC-USA or their reproductions, made in China. At the end I was lucky enough...

Ha-ha, talk about overkill...?! ☺ Glad you got it done and better safe than sorry, I guess...

If you want "exact"... it's 77-3/4" sidewall to sidewall; plus another 1/4" per side, for the tire's bulge (even fully inflated & empty). So you need something with a bed that is 78-1/2" wide, at least. Unless your trailer was a flatbed, it seems to be too narrow for the task.

Well noted: Only half an hour after posting this thread you had already placed your ad. In such a case I would expect any member to simply make a short second post, immediately after, saying something like "... issue resolved, thanks" FWIW, in your profile It says Joined: Aug 11, 2015

Worth to you...? Or to a potential buyer? (Big difference) I'd place an ad in the Classifieds - Parts for Sale section and maybe start at $500. You can always lower your price, further on - if no interest. Don't forget to attach some closeup pics; it sure helps.

Yes. Also take a flat file and check the areas around the keyways. Any burrs/ high spots there will affect the drum bearing bushings when re-assembling.

For reference: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/found-a-v17a-mtq-how-rare.14166/

Sure, because the keys are still in place... As I said above, first that collar needs to come off the shaft; then you can/ must pull out both keys. Make sure that the keys are not deformed or have any burrs that prevent the clutch collar from sliding further out.

OK, just don't force anything! The sliding clutch collar (#7538691) needs to come out first; then both keys. After that, stand the assembly upright - gear case facing down - support it with your feet and pull up the drum.

So, you did pull the keys out already? Does the drum move a bit at least, axially? Or does it feel solid with the shaft?

Yes, more than one... And if you put a HMMWV 6.5L N/A or turbo in there (not a civilian motor!), that would be a real upgrade and it makes perfect sense to me. Here is just one: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/optimizer-long-block-hummer-24v-or-cucv-24v.159215/