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Did you have 2 alternators? Like a regular cucv?

Too bad you are not closer. I have all the parts you would need to fix it. Was your wiring hacked up?

I’m leaning towards bad ignition switch. Gonna have to pull out my meter and spare parts. I have no headlights, no starter, new batteries, right connections, good grounds. I am getting power to the 30 amp fuse. I’ll look into it tonight but this one has me stumped

Having the same problem now

I have that exact book

Lol i figured they were rare.

Yes

Can someone help me find the part number for the 1” spacer that’s on the Dana 70 rear axle? I can’t find it anywhere. Also anyone have a pair?

Also you created a dead short. The + of the rear battery gets hooked up to the bus bar not the negative.

Your bus bar does not have 2 voltages. It’s 24v the way you have it hooked up. The 12v wire that goes to you black diamond post needs to go to 12v. It’s hooked up to 24v now.

I will be there Saturday. I have tons of cucv stuff i could bring. Pm me

What ever it costs to make a key and ship. Just helping a fellow cucv friend.

I’ll sell you a key

Wiggle the fuse .

I ended up just putting down 85 for mine. It is just a regular m929

I have good used ones.

UPDATE: Ok guys I figured it out and I’m pretty embarrassed but oh well. The first thing you should do is test your fuses. And I did. I failed to see one was missing completely and did not realize it until I really stuck my head underneath. It caught my eye as I was plugging in my gp card. The...

the fuse at the bottom is 24v

There is not much heat at 3 minutes of starting.

Update I switched out the gauge cluster. Then put in a 4th alternator. Still no change. Still getting 24v to the fuse panel. At this point the only thing that has not been changed is the interior harness. After 5 minutes I’m still loosing voltage guage, 2gen light and low coolant light. Then...