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Ever since I got the truck over 3 years ago I have had an issue with door latches. Not anymore! Suprman, you are awesome!

I removed the runflats first which helped but after the centramatics, things got ALOT smoother. I'm running standard 12 bolt wheels and tires. I have a friend that tried the beads first without the runflats but ditched them in favor of the centramatics also.

I know a guy personally that had an inline electric fuel pump between the tank and lift pump. Might be something to try for some troubleshooting.

This is always good info to start with,

Welcome. I found 2 Prius seats on Craigslist for $60 and installed them. Very little modifications needed.

A toggle switch mounts in the bed and plugs in to there. So the troops in the back can alert the driver and tell him to slow down!

I'm in the Upstate, can't help you there with a mechanic.

I drive mine on the road in South Carolina all of the time with no issues. What type of servicing?

One solid light is normal, not 5.

See, no forward latch.

So are you saying that your forward hatch can be opened from the outside from the factory? Mine is only accessible from the inside.

Tobash Can you verify that this replaces the front or rear latch? If front, then you have to cut the outer skin.

Absolutely. The solenoid is in the positive wire and totally disconnects power to the truck. i used a continuous duty 24 volt, 200 amp solenoid.

I'm not sure why you would need a keyed lock there. Mine opens and locks from the inside. Why would you want to open it from the outside? ; it would be tough.

Dang man; if you consider 5 hours total slow I'm afraid to tell you how slow I am. I measured mine in days.

Don't be afraid to pull both radiator side tanks . It can be done fairly easily with the radiator still in place. You might be surprised at all of the mud and goop in there.

Installed a set of Centramatics. Amazingly smooth at 70 on the interstate; money well spent.

$300 and they pay shipping both ways. Excellent work and mine runs like a new machine.

Problem is that most people don't understand how the system works. There is one pressure line going to the PCU; remove it and cap it if you want but there's no need to. Nothing is going to happen, break, etc with the ECU unplugged. Remove the wheel valves and install valve cores where the hoses...

You can twist the cannon plug off of the ECU and you will be good to go. No point in removing anything else other than wheel valves and weights if you want to.