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It's a PIA but I reached from underneath, unplugged it and replaced it down there. I ordered the male also but ended up not using it. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F4K8OFO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4IDENS/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_liREEbGGM685K I bought this one and replaced mine. It worked fine.

https://dieselcare.store/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw09HzBRDrARIsAG60GP9kx-6lBBZWGp81kra2JAzFipNd_-zt0bsy4Vo6GY0keSV-vpat70waAgiMEALw_wcB

Engine runs smoother and has more pickup. For $300, it was money well spent.

Mine was rusted in place from the water sitting in the valley. It had a definite " catch " that could be felt in the accelerator pedal just above idle. It drove me crazy to the point that I pulled the pump and had it rebuilt. Best thing I've done to this truck yet.

It looks pretty close to me. The flange has a donut gasket that swivels and lets it move around a lot. I'm sure that there are rubber bushings that go in the large holes in the body. And they do stick out quite a bit on the armoured trucks. I made my exhaust and mounted mine tightly to the body...

A slight mist is acceptable but I would go ahead and rebuild it. Easy to do with minimal parts.

I was able to disconnect , replace and reconnect mine through the fan from underneath. It wasn't any fun though.

I have the same tach in my 1045. Hook it up to the tach drive and be done with it.

I was messing with a 1084 crane and finally figured out that the boom up wouldn't work unless the outriggers were down and it was fully extended out of the stowed position.

Welcome from near Spartanburg.

This is what I used. About 3/4 x 3/8 very dense weatherstripping. With RTV on the bolts.

I highly recommend that you remove the turret cover and replace it with a seal underneath it. If yours is like mine, they just bolted the cover on metal-to-metal with no regards to sealing it. I have zero leaks from mine now.

Sweet!

yep.

Idler pulley bearing?

Shroud halves need to be off as well as the intercooler tubes. No need to remove radiator or coolant hoses. It's a much easier job with 2 people also. It's easiest to remove the clutch air line and fitting then slip the fan over with the rubber on the hub.

The rubber comes off with the fan. You can reuse the bolts.

Here is a picture of one that has been modified. The 3/16's bolts you see go into existing holes. The rubber is removed and the inner hub is locked to the fan hub. It works exactly like the newer fan and clutch.