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I have almost the identical setup. I pull an M871 with an M915A1. I use the standard civi 12V cable. Have not had any problems. Electrical loading will be the same with either 12V or 24V. The only advantage to the 24V is that the trailer is getting it's power from relays instead of going...
Thank you for the kind words. I figured that I would never get around to installing the A/C in my M818, so I wanted someone to have it that could use it. I'm anxious to see how you mount everything in the cab.
The M915A1 uses mostly 12 volts-only uses 24 for starting and military trailers, so it was an easy hook up. If you have a 24 volt system, the best thing to do is to use a voltage converter as mentioned in other threads. You can also make one using a low cost voltage regulator circuit. I could...
Thanks for the compliments. I drilled a little, then blew away the chips, then drilled again,etc. This meant when I broke thru there were very few chips. The chips are so small that I think they just go into the turbo housing and as soon as you start the engine, they get blown out the exhaust...
I powered the gages up with a wire to the "on" terminal of the ignition switch. For the gage lights, there are some terminated pigtales for dash gage lighting. I opened up the gage swing down panel and found some of these pigtales and spliced the AutoMeter gage lights into them. It works...
I enlarged the wiring hole for the fan wires in the dash so that I could run the thermocouple wire, the boost tubing, and the electrical wiring down into the dash. It is very tight getting access to the underside of the dash. I had to work thru the glove box and remove the circuit breaker panels...
I installed AutoMeter pyro and boost gages in my M915A1 tractor. AutoMeter because I come from a racing backround and always liked their gages. I mounted the gages on an aluminum block so that I could prewire and plumb the gages out of the truck. I used the existing dash mounting screws to...
If you do severe off-road or go to big tires, the nylon bushing becomes the weak link in the kingpin front end. You either break up the nylon or the wheel loading pushes the spring up and lets the top of the knuckle move sideways because the nylon bushing is riding up the cone
Nope, need to get spring elimator kit. Two different styles, one uses a stack of shims, the other uses an adjustment bolt to push down on a plate that pushes down on the bushing. Either is easy to install and not too expensive. Most hard core off road places sell the bronze bushings and the...
These need to be shimmed for proper pre-load and checked regularly. Nylon uses spring loading to set pre-load and never need to be be re-adjusted. Designed specially for extreme duty off road racing. Most of the King of the Hammers racers use them.
Does 65 easy, never tried faster than that because red light on speedo turns on at 62 and afraid I may hurt something. Very nice trucks, but bumpy ride unloaded.
There are a couple of exceptions to the regs. It does not apply to historic vehicles or to low mileage/usage commercial vehicles. If commercial, you have to have a certified hourmeter and hub odometer installed and get it read each year. It has to be under both limits on hours and miles. The...
But not to worry. CARB(Cal Air Resources Board) did a financial analysis and found that replacing every heavy duty diesel engine, truck, or tractor in the state would have "negligible financial impact on consumer". Sure-I believe that.
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