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I use the aux pump to fill the day tank but I have trust issues, so I don't leave the switch in that position all the time. If the house is on generator I'll be around anyway, topping up a couple times a day is not a problem.
Mine handled 14.4kw for a couple minutes recently while load testing. That would be 60A per leg.
When I first got it, it would die under load. The problem was a weak fuel pump, it was getting starved when demand increased. I wonder if part of your temperature difference is because that leftmost...
I put the same connector on it as the generator inlet for the house, makes it easy to connect, also tests my cable. The stove is nice because burners give you nice, stepped loads. Once everything gets hot the elements will cycle, giving you some dynamic load.
This forum does not disappoint: great suggestions!
For context, we have two separate living areas (parents on other end of house), total of six people on a 50 gallon hot water heater. Two separate AC units, 3 ton and 3.5 ton. Automation for consistent hot water supply in the midst of a power...
Lol, proximity for the win! I may take you up on that Scoobyshep, for now just point me in the right direction.
Switching to generator power is not automated at all. The generator lives in the garage most of the year, I just get it out for storm events. I'm fine with that part.
We back-feed...
I need you guys to point me in the right direction. I'm interested in adding load shedding so my water heater drops out if either of our A/C units is going to start.
-- Carl
55 gallon drum with siphoning issues. Currently break suction at the bung fitting, but a valve would be more convenient. Thought I would check for a go to solution before reinventing the wheel (first time for everything).
Looks like the 55 gallon bung adapter has a lever on top. Is that to lock it into the drum, or does it screw into the drum and that lever is some kind of valve?
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