Search results

4.2 is certainly shy of 5.0. Even at that the generator should be putting out somewhere near 120 volts at the convenience outlet if the VR is good. All things so far point to a bad VR. To double check, I assume you get around 120 volts AC at the convenience outlet with S1 in START, but then it...

It should have varied from around 0 to around 5,000 ohms. Was it generally in that range when rotating it from stop to stop? The meter may have read something like 4.98 K instead of 4,980 ohms for instance.

And 0 ohms resistance all the time when you disconnected wire 156A from the VR and then measure the RESISTANCE between wire 156A and terminal 2 of the VR while rotating the AC Voltage adjust knob?

OK, that would indicate a problem with either the wiring from VR terminals 1 & 2 to the voltage adjust potentiometer on the front panel or a problem with the voltage adjust potentiometer itself on the front panel. Just to re-verity. You measured 126.7 volts AC between VR terminals 3 & 4 with...

That's good. It indicates the exciter is working, flashing the gen head and the gen head stator is putting out AC voltage. That's not good. When you did the test did you disconnect wire 156A from the VR and then measure the RESISTANCE between wire 156A and terminal 2 of the VR while...

7.6 volts there is exactly correct. TM says "approximately 8 VDC". 7.6 VDC is what I measure on my good working set. Measuring 7.6 indicates the "flashing" circuit is working and you have continuity from there to the exciter and the exciter is receiving the voltage. What voltages and...

I have a NOS CHR10 C57410 EF that'll work for you. Just pay shipping and it's yours. "Paying it forward" since a SS member sent it to me fore zero

The blue device is a MOV Metal Oxide Varistor better known as a surge protector. It's there to help protect the VR from voltage spikes from the Quad Winding which can cause the VR to short out damaging the Quad winding. I have them available. PM me and I can send you one.

Q1 and Q2 are in the large bundle of wires that run from the gen head and go to the P5 connector. From the TM it appears the Q1 & Q2 wires from the gen head have wire terminals on them. I can't see my P5 connector well but it looks like it may have a pair of mating contacts on two short wires...

If you can post a picture of the readings on the gauge panel with the set running so we can see the gauges.

The Pre-Heat relay K18 is different between an 802 and an 803.

Interesting... I've experienced the same problem with my 802 at shutdown a few times. Have been shutting it down while slowly releasing the fuel solenoid by hand to prevent the problem.

Have you used your load bank on other sets and do their %Load meters work OK? Have you cleaned contacts 1-6 in P6 and J6? The CT signals go thru those contacts. If K8 was bad it may influence the %Load reading. You might try disconnecting the two wires on K8-2 and connect the two wire lugs...

The LOW FUEL fault should have nothing to do with the fuel level sender. The LOW FUEL is detected by the float switch in the tank. The fuel level sender only provides a signal to the fuel gauge to operate it. I'd suggest grabbing a meter and checking some DC voltages to determine where the...

A number of things come to mind 1) Gen head leads hooked to wrong TB3 terminals 2) Wrong leads from TB3 running thru the CT2 3) Wrong number of turns of wire thru CT2 4) Bad CT 5) other...

Your readings for R12 & R13 indicate a probable contact problem in S8. With S8 set to 120/240 R13 gets hooked in parallel to R12. So when checking the resistance across R12 & R13 you should get virtually the same resistance. Since you aren't and R13 is reading 7.6 ohms this would cause K8 to...

Correct two terminals but B1 is B2 and B2 is B1.

I'll do the same resistance checks on my set with S6 & S8 in the same settings and post up what I measure tomorrow.

Where do those red and blue wires go to after they leave the top of the picture? Those are not in a normal 803.