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There should be TMs in the Duece TM section that covers them. Unless you have OBA, your only option is sprag. I hated the one that was in my s-box. I converted to air shift and never looked back. If you had 120PSI regulated air supply, like a tank, the air shift would work.

Do you wan a sprag or air shift?

I agree with NDT. I was in the trucking industry for years and learned that it turns out best if you let the people that do that for a living do it. They have the means to repair other things that might attention without having to re-install only to find that second, unseen issue and have to...

I know where there a bunch out on the ground. LD/LDT and I think LDS.

Yeah, we have talked about that. It is a PITA to get on the airport now. StaBil and let the stuff run out of the carb, drain the fuel from the tank works for now.

This truck has been a favorite of mine since I was a volunteer at the Museum. I have had the pleasure of doing brakes...a few times...seems when things sit, stuff goes south! I was able to figure out the issue it had with the transition form idle to any throttle, had a gasket that was made that...

Looks like they all stayed where they were hobbled, none got away!

Great to meet the Mikes! Load out went smooth, HOPEFULLY they got out of here before traffic got bad. I went home so my wife and I could get some time in together, grocery and b-day present shopping, and I live at the 210fwy. At 1430, it was more stopped than normal. Hope the 10 was less...

Amy progress on this? If you are doing the acc drive, I have tools to remove and install the pulleys and a tool I made to remove the old bushing from the pulley.

Not quite "museum quality". 2 of them run and have all their parts, including tow bars, engine covers and seat backs, the other one has no engine, but is a good base to start with or part out to re-coup monies spent. Looking forward to meeting another SS member!

Well, to me, it looks like the oil is starting at the acc drive and being blown out the back of the pulley. Notice that the area at the PS pulley isn't that wet, but the bottom of the mounting bkt is very wet. Where is it the cleanest? Oil leaks wash dirt and debris away, dirt and debris stick...

There ya go. Swing type fan hub. In the pic, kinda hard to tell, but MOST of the oil leak looks to be concentrated toward the lower part of th acc drive pully, I don't see a large amt of oil on top of the acc drive ear and data plate. The oil leak looks to me to be from the accessory drive...

That will tell you if whatever the failure was, is not there anymore, been fixed prior to the new owner buying it IF a negative report. If the anal sys shows copper, aluminum, steel/iron, still a guess as to where it is coming from. Did that make sense?

Don't think so. It looks like it was pushed out under pressure...extruded. A rod or main won't do it like it looks , looks way thinner, very blue and usually a thin, wide sheet, AND there will be a very noticeable knock. A cam bushing normally doesn't fail like the picture. They like to weld...

Wait to put the pump on. If it is an accessory drive bushing, it will come off again. Take the belts off....yes, it is a PITA and the pump might spring a leak at the seal washer....And grab the drive pulley. There should be slight play there. If you have the means, pull the pulley and have a...

Looks " extruded" . What's it made of? Magnetic or no? The only thing I can think of that is 2" is a cam bushing, but they don't fail like that, all peeled out. An accessory drive bushing can fail like that...seen it a few times, but there is usually an oil leak associated with it.

Cummins offers an SAE2 housing. You just need to find a parts guy that can find it. I HAD all of those books at one time, but I left them when I retired and they have since been tossed. What is on it now? Although, moving away from OAC is a good thing, they were prone to overheating.

Wrong pump for the OP application.

PDF to print, JPEG just to look at.

I can drawer a picture if you like, but, the engine needs to be fired off and ran a bit after the test stuff is installed in order to fully get it right the first time and not unleash the parts cannon on it.