Search results

Cool. Count me in!

Cool. What about the metal caps that keep the rubber cups spread though? Are they included? Curious because all of the cylinders on my truck when I got were the crappy springs with no metal caps. Anywhere to source those?

Yeah, I thought about that right as I finished...

Success! Figured I'd share what worked for me since I hate threads that end with no solution... I had some excess ABS plastic sheeting I used a while back to make a cover for the firewall hole around the steering column. One leftover piece was maybe 12x4, so I sanded the cut edge down to make...

@ldmack3, did you use a piece that stretched the length of the wiper, or make a thinner piece more along the lines of a tire spoon or the coat hanger spoon gypsyman mentioned earlier?

@HDN, seems the biggest issue is the proper springs and the metal inserts that keep the rubber cups spread properly. The metal probably could be printed. Shouldn't be under much pressure. The springs though.... I'm not sure.

The front and rear are the same. It's certainly worth the cost to have the correct springs I would think. Good point about the condition of NOS rubber. Most of the rubber on other NOS items I have has been pretty good though.

So true. I can almost guarantee nothing was ever finessed in a motor pool.

@Gypsyman, now that is definitely worth a shot. Thanks for that!

@cattlerepairman , I riveted in the side tracks like they were originally, but the wipers that run along the window class have metal clips that snap into the door. @Gypsyman, I actually tried some heavy plastic, but it didn't work so great. It was thick plastic, heavier than a contractor bag...

I'll preface this by saying I feel like an idiot for even having to post this. But... Gutted my deuce doors, cleaned and greased the door handles/latches and window regulators, plus replaced all window channels and the felt wiper. So reinstalling the window should just be a reverse of the...

Thanks for the updates @Gypsyman. Quality parts are definitely getting harder to find. National Parts Supply is showing out of stock now, so... I'm nowhere near mechanically inclined enough to create my own. But with all the creative folks on this forum, it'd be cool if someone did it.

Glad I found this post because I'm not sure I have the right filter. My old one has a hole in the filter element, so I ordered one . The part number matched on the website, but the one I got has no part number on the filter itself. It looks like what @country posted above. It's about 12 inches...

Thanks @rustystud , good to know it can be removed. Figured I'd change everything possible while I'm back in there, even if it's not a seal that comes in the kits. Seems like the cylinder wall cleaned up nice and smooth with a little #0000 steel wool, so hopefully that solves that issue...

Good point about the O-ring getting pinched. I'm just surprised it doesn't seem to really make much of a seal to begin with. I did put silicon lube on the other cups and O-rings, but not that big one on the air can. I'll make a point to add some on reinstall.

New cups felt good and pliable. I don't think they're the problem, although I have no way of knowing for sure.

If anyone has input on this, I'm all ears. Rebuilt my short air pack a couple of months ago using the guide @silverstate55 wrote up on these forums for the short style, bled the brakes, have run the truck a few times checking other systems. This weekend I noticed a drip around the O-ring where...

Yay, me! LOL. Thanks for the NSN on that.

OK, I've searched this forum and can't find any similar problem listed, so here goes... Start the truck, air buzzer sounds normal. Buzzer cuts off right at 60 psi as it should. Then at 90 psi, it cuts back on for a minute or two before turning off again. Once it cuts off the second time, it...

Sweet... Count me in.